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Barfly

Jason Genegabus


art
KEN IGE / KIGE@STARBULLETIN.COM
Rodney Glover, left, bar manager, and Stephanie Frazier, bartender, hold up two of Gordon Biersch's beers -- Marzen and Export, right.



Nice place for
ice-cold Biersch

Gordon Biersch
Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays;
10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Location: Aloha Tower Marketplace
Phone: 599-4877

fly

WHEN THE Barfly opened up a recent e-mail announcing public appearances by cheerleaders from the San Francisco 49ers here in Honolulu, it quickly became obvious there was only one place to go for this week's column.

The San Francisco 49ers Gold Rush was scheduled for an autograph signing session on Father's Day over at Gordon Biersch, which meant Sunday would be a fine time to head over to Aloha Tower for some quality brew to go with all the eye candy that was expected.

Alas, showing up on "Hawaiian time" that day meant we couldn't get more than a glimpse of the cheerleaders as they sat at a table near Gordon Biersch's outdoor bar. The line of autograph seekers and other Gold Rush fans snaked through the restaurant and back towards the front entrance. And forget about grabbing a table of our own, either -- it seemed like everyone brought their dad down to have a couple beers with the cheerleaders in celebration of Father's Day.

That first trip to Gordon Biersch planted a seed in the Barfly's mind, however, and we ended up back at Aloha Tower the next day to pay a visit when the place wouldn't be as crowded.

As one of the only three establishments in Honolulu that brew their own beer on premises, Gordon Biersch is a must-visit for those into drinking more than just a Bud Light, Corona or Heineken. With locations in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Nevada, Ohio, Tennessee, Washington state and Washington, D.C., in addition to Honolulu, both locals and visitors alike are familiar with the company and what they offer to customers.

Here in Honolulu, the best experience at Gordon Biersch is either outside at a table or sitting at the outdoor bar itself. Located right on the water at Honolulu Harbor, this joint is fantastic for those of us who like to imbibe in an outside setting -- unless a ship happens to be docked at the time. A few dinner cruise ships blocked off the view for customers at Hooters and the Waterfront Crabhouse on the day we landed at Aloha Tower, but luckily there was nothing but blue water and a great view there to welcome us when we pulled up a chair at Gordon Biersch.

About 20 seats line the bar itself, and there are more than enough tables spread throughout the outdoor eating area to provide a place to sit and enjoy your visit. There's room in each of the corners above the bar for a television set, but only three of the four locations actually had a working TV in place. A piped-in mix of older music from the '70s and '80s served as the day's soundtrack when we visited; Gordon Biersch also offers live entertainment every Wednesday through Sunday night.

BUT LET'S NOT lose focus here, folks -- remember that it's all about the beer when the Barfly comes to visit. Gordon Biersch doesn't disappoint in this area, with offerings like Blonde Bock, Dunkles, Marzen and Pilsner beer all regularly on tap at the bar. Each of these brews could be compared to a mass-produced beer; Bud Light fans would be pleasantly surprised with a glass of their Pilsner, while those with an affinity for darker beers should enjoy the full-bodied, malty goodness that a pint of Dunkles provides.

Also available on a more limited basis at the brewpub are seasonal beers, which are produced only a few months out of the year in smaller quantities than the regular offerings. Gordon Biersch just finished off its last keg of Maibock this month, an Einbecker-style lager with roots in 13th-century Germany. In July, a new batch of Hefeweizen will start flowing from the bar's taps, followed by Festbier and Winterbock later this year.

THE ONLY GRIPES the Barfly has about Gordon Biersch are two that have been expressed about nearly every place that serves alcohol in Aloha Tower Marketplace -- parking and drink prices. The only way out of paying for parking here is to find a space across Ala Moana in the area near Downtown, or over by Circuit City and Restaurant Row. Otherwise, be ready to drop an extra couple of bucks on the way out; even if your ticket is validated, you still have to pay for parking here.

As a beer drinker, I guess I can understand the premium pricing for a pint of Gordon Biersch brew. At $4.25 a glass, you'd expect a pretty darn good beer, and most people won't be disappointed the offerings available on tap. I just wish they'd introduce a few more happy hour specials for the penny-pinchers like me who look for the highest beer-to-buck ratio when going out to knock a few back.


How much for a Bud Light?

You'll have to go somewhere else for a Bud Light this time -- Gordon Biersch only offers their own beer at Aloha Tower Marketplace, with prices ranging from $3.25 for a 10-ounce glass to $4.25 for a 16-ounce pint of their liquid courage.

Get things to do?

Other than the televisions hanging above the bar, there's not much to do here when nobody is performing live on stage for customers. Then again, as long as a ship isn't blocking your view, who needs distractions when there's a fantastic view available to go with that cold beer in your hand?

What about the grinds?

While the Drunken Poke ($8.50) we ordered was nothing to write home about -- I added a generous hit of shoyu to get more flavor -- the Gordon Biersch cheeseburger with garlic fries ($8.95) really filled me up. Other pupu menu items include crab with artichoke dip ($9.95), a combination platter with barbecue ribs, calamari and sweet chili and ginger-glazed chicken wings ($15.95) and a variety of pizzas ($9.95-$11.50) made from scratch. Full lunch and dinner menus are also available.

And the help?

Our server was attentive and helpful when the Barfly landed at Gordon Biersch, taking the time to explain the differences between menus and what beers were available at the bar that day. Service can be kind of sketchy on the busier nights here, so be sure to stop by in the afternoon or on a weeknight if you're looking for a good place to unwind with a quality beer and don't want to worry about flagging down someone to bring another drink.




See the Columnists section for some past articles.

Barfly appears every Friday in Star-Bulletin Weekend.
E-mail Jason Genegabus at jason@starbulletin.com with suggestions of neighborhood bars to visit.



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