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The Weekly Eater

Nadine Kam


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DENNIS ODA / DODA@STARBULLETIN.COM
At Maki's Sushi Cafe in the Dillingham Transportation Building Downtown, Yuki Tanaka prepares to serve up a plateful of tempura. The little eatery also caters roll-your-own sushi parties.




Try inexpensive spots
if you’ve been hit
by the tax man


Tuesday's the day that the tax man cometh and if you haven't done your paperwork by now, in my experience that can only mean one of two things: you're either pitifully disorganized, or you owe the feds, big time.

I can't help the former, but for those who've got to pay, that means no play for a while, and just for you, I've come up with a little list of inexpensive places to dine -- some old, some new -- so you won't starve while you're trying to scrape up that couple thousand bucks.

>> Ahimsa Curries: This buffet allows you to sample about eight different curries each evening, with side dishes of basmati rice, puris (flat bread), and pakoras (deep-fried vegetables) all for $9.99. Offerings embrace various combinations of Indian curries imbued with cardamom, coriander, cloves, garlic, ginger and mustard seed, with the occasional Thai-style curry thrown in for diversity's sake, though there's less of that now because the Thai curries have proven to be too mild for Indian food lovers. At 1901 Kapiolani Boulevard. Open 11:30 a.m. to 1:35 p.m. and 6 to 9:30 p.m. daily. Call 942-0853.

>>Dixie Grill: Dining at this rib-and-crab joint isn't cheap, but on Tuesday they're giving a tax break to diners by eliminating the 4 percent sales tax for one day. Little things add up. At 404 Ward Ave. (596-8359) and 99-016 Kamehameha Highway in Aiea (485-2722).

>> Jamba Juice: How about a freebie? Jamba Juice is giving away 24-ounce smoothies from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. April 24 on Oahu, and April 25 on Maui. The catch? It's a benefit for Prevent Child Abuse Hawaii and they'll collect donations in exchange for mostly fresh fruit and sherbet blends that usually cost about $3.95. On Oahu: Kailua Village Shops, Kahala Mall, Pearlridge Center, 130 Merchant St., Ward Village Shops, 625 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki Trade Center, Kapolei's Halekuai Center, Ewa Town Center and Aiea Shopping Center. On Maui: Maui Marketplace and Pi'ilani Village.

>> Maki's Sushi Cafe: At this charming Downtown oasis a walk-in counter suggests take-out only, but you can relax in the Dillingham Transportation Building courtyard over casual sit-down meal of salads, limited sushi selections, hot or cold udon, and donburi (rice bowls). The special don ($6.99) is crowned with shrimp, ahi and tamago far more substantial than you'd expect from a fast-food outlet. Similarly, a bowl of cold udon "California Roll Style" ($5.99) is topped with a pretty arrangement of surimi, sliced cucumbers and avocado which meshes well with the soy-enhanced dashi. At 725 Bishop St. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays to Fridays. Call 537-6951.

>> Jody Maroni's: Another Downtown newbie, this outlet's claim to fame is "The World's Greatest Sausage Sandwiches." The selling point behind Jody Maroni sausages is their health factor. They are made without nitrates or MSG, and many are low in fat, so are definitely better for you (hospital visits are even more costly than taxes) than the average sausage, but this renders the Yucatan chicken/turkey with cilantro as dry as powder. Those normally against vegetables will appreciate the moisture of grilled onions and peppers piled on the $4.29 sandwiches. The tastiest is the smoked chicken apple, with the fruit giving it much needed moisture and sweetness. At the Queen's Plaza Building, 801 Alakea St. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays to Fridays. Call 545-4292.

>> McDonald's: The home of the Golden Arches never gives up, and although its new lineup of premium salads are more pricey than the burgers here, salad eaters may find them fairly reasonable at $4.99 for Caesar, California Cobb or Bacon Ranch combinations with your choice of crispy or grilled chicken served with packets of Newman's Own dressings. It's an improvement over the Salad Shakers packed too tight to shake, which didn't allow the dressing to spread. It looks like the chain is getting serious about rising to the challenge of the competition out there.

>> Pho #1: From the bone broth cooked from scratch to the labor-intensive stews and tall stacks of mint and basil proffered with wraps, there's a lot to appreciate about this humble eatery that has become one of my new favorite restaurants for its authentic and unpretentious fare. The anise-flavored phó runs about $5.25 medium and $5.75 large, topped by the likes of tender rare steak and beef brisket. And two can feast for the price of one when it comes to the vermicelli roll-ups -- a platterful of mint and basil leaves, bean sprouts, cucumbers, daikon and your choice of meats that you roll up in accompanying rice paper. Grilled pork is only $8.95. It's cheap and filling without making you fat. What more could you want? You could follow with real dessert or a glass of ice coffee. At 1505 Kapiolani Boulevard. Open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Call 955-3438.

>> Tempei: A salad bar stocked with sweet steamed kabocha, potato salad, nishime, soy beans and various seafood and tofu salads may be enough for a full meal at $6 for a large plate or $7.50 if adding soup and rice. If you're still hungry after that, add to your plate with a la carte tempura items ranging from mushrooms to shrimp for a few dollars. Regulars show up between 4:30 and 6 p.m. for the early bird special of miso soup, sunamono, tempura, entree (this can range from broiled butterfish to shoyu spareribs) and rice for $9.95 plus tax. It doesn't cost much more if you arrive late and if you're this late with your taxes ... At Sam Sung Plaza, 655 Keeaumoku St. Suite 108. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday. Call 941-8773.





See some past restaurant reviews in the
Columnists section.




Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

excellent;
very good, exceeds expectations;
average;
below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com

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