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By The Glass

Kevin Toyama


Taurino wines earn
plaudits for taste, value


In the heel of Italy's boot lies the country's breadbasket, Puglia. This region, so diverse in agriculture, supplies the majority of durum semolina wheat used throughout Italy and is the largest producer of commercial olive oil. It is only natural for a region such as this to be home to such unique indigenous grape varietals as negro-amaro and malvasia nera.

Prior to the '80s, these brawny varietals produced wines of little character and were often used for blending into jug wines. But unlike their white-fleshed cousins cabernet sauvignon and merlot, these grapes had red flesh and the potential to create wines with supple fruit and less tannin.

Recognizing that with a little bit of respect and care in vineyard and cellar, these grapes had great potential, Cosimo Taurino, of the Taurino winery, implemented modern fermentation techniques and dramatically reduced yields in the field to improve flavor and quality.

The Taurino Salice Salentino 1999 ($9.99) is exuberant and juicy with sweet fruit and soft tannins. The Taurino Notarpanaro 1997 ($13.99) is the chunkier of the two with rich jammy berries and supple plum flavors. They are great values, tremendous food wines and are catching on in restaurants across the country.

On the way to the Mediterranean, in the South of France, is an area called Montpellier in the appellation of Coteaux du Languedoc. Here, amid steep slopes and ancient sleeping soils, transplanted Americans Robert and Kimberly Cripps are making a name for themselves at Domaine du Poujol.

Since moving to France, they have been quietly crafting full-flavored wines with finesse, character and soul. Robert honed his winemaking skills at Saintsbury, Peter Michael, Domaine Roulot and Meo-Camuzet. He met Kimberly while she was at Robert Mondavi Winery.

The Domaine du Poujol "Proteus" 2000 ($13.79) is charged with aromas of dark brooding blackberries, plums, sage, graphite, mushrooms and a touch of cedar. The harmony of flavors in this blend of merlot, cinsault and carignane makes quite a statement and is a great value.

As Robert says, "Our ambition is to express in our wines both the Domaine's French terroir and our California experience." I believe they have managed to capture the essence of -- the best of -- both worlds.


Kevin Toyama is manager of the
Beretania R. Field Food and Wine Co.




This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
Write to features@starbulletin.com

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