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An unusual mushroom with an equally unusual name is starting to gain recognition in the islands. The eryngii mushroom started appearing in markets here last year and is slowly acquiring a following.Although a bit pricey, it is more affordable than the ultra-exclusive matsutake.
The basics: The eryngii mushroom, also known as king oyster mushroom, is the largest variety in the oyster family. It is native to Europe, mainly in and around the Mediterranean, and parts of Central Asia. Its name is derived from its genus name, pleurotus eryngii.
Although the eryngii has been popular in Europe and Asia for many years, it has been virtually unknown here until recently. A boom in Italian cuisine in Japan in the '90s helped popularize this mushroom, which is used in a variety of pasta dishes.
After much experimentation, California mushroom farmers are succeeding with commercial production. The eryngii is said to be easy to grow, but consistent quality is difficult to sustain.
The mushroom's large, stout stem and small, light brownish gray cap makes for a very unique looking fungus. In the wild, these mushrooms are found near the roots of hardwood trees, but in a commercial environment they grow to an average of 3 to 5 inches in a variety of mediums, such as sawdust or sterile, steamed rice bran.
Unlike other oyster mushroom varieties, which can have tough, fibrous stems, the eryngii's stem is prized for its tasty, meaty and chewy texture. The eryngii is also low in moisture and very adaptable to Western, Asian and Mediterranean dishes.
Selecting: Choose mushrooms that have thick white stalks that are free of blemishes. Over time these mushrooms can dry out and the stalks may turn brown.
Storing: Eryngii, although quite sturdy, should be stored in a paper bag or plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to three days.
Use: Eryngii is an ideal cooking mushroom. Its meaty quality resembles that of abalone, making it a great substitute in vegetarian dishes. A simple sauté of sliced eryngii in garlic, butter and a dash of salt or an Asian mix of minced garlic, ginger, soy sauce and sugar yields a tasty appetizer.
Sliced or diced mushrooms may be added to soups, stews and stir-fries, or use the mushroom in a variety of tomato- and cream-based pasta dishes.
Where to buy: Eryngii mushrooms are available at selected markets such as Times, Marukai and 99 Ranch Market. They should be available year round, but only sporadically. Purchase mushrooms in 6-ounce packages that run $4.69 to $4.99 or loose at around $10 a pound.
Food Stuffs: Morsels
Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com
