By Request

BETTY SHIMABUKURO

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Creamy soup hits the spot
during cool, rainy weather

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Last week's rainy days made Pat Abear's recipe a timely one: "I have tried and tried to make cream of broccoli soup but something is always missing," she wrote. "Do you have a recipe?"

This seemed a good opportunity to warm up the family and sneak in some vegetables at the same time, and the recipe was handy -- in "The Best Recipe: Soups & Stews," by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine (Boston Common Press, 2001).

Cook's Illustrated is renowned for its hyper-attentive (some might say anal-retentive) approach, which can involve preparing a single dish dozens of ways in search of exactly the right recipe.

The editors came up with their recommendations for a creamy vegetable soup that tastes of the vegetable -- not just cream and butter: Simmer the vegetables briefly so they don't discolor. In the case of broccoli that also keeps unpleasant sulphur compounds from being released. Use shallots or leeks, not stronger-tasting onions. A small amount of flour provides the thickening and lemon juice adds enough acidity to brighten the taste.

The result is a very tasty soup that isn't heavy. It's simple to put together -- the only tedious part is chopping up all that broccoli.

Cream of Broccoli Soup

1-1/2 pounds broccoli
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 large shallots, minced (about 1 cup), or 2 medium leeks, white and light green parts, chopped fine (about 1-1/3 cups)
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
1-1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Separate broccoli stalks and florets. Trim tough bottoms of stalks and peel outer skin. Coarsely chop stalks, then pulse in a food processor until very small but not puréed (largest pieces should be pea-sized). Do the same with the florets, working in 2 batches.

Heat butter in a large pot over low heat until foaming. Add shallots and cook, covered, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until combined, about 30 seconds. Gradually add stock, stirring constantly. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 to 5 minutes.

Add broccoli to simmering stock. Increase heat and return to a simmer. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until broccoli is tender, 7 to 8 minutes.

Purée soup in batches in a blender. Rinse and wipe pot, then return soup to pot (or use an immersion blender to purée soup in the pot). Stir in cream. Warm soup over low heat, adding up to 1 cup hot water if soup is too thick. Add lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving (not including salt to taste): 340 calories, 25 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 80 mg sodium, 18 g carbohydrate, 15 g protein.*

Food Stuffs: Morsels

Send queries along with name and phone number to:
"By Request," Honolulu Star-Bulletin,
500 Ala Moana, No. 7-210, Honolulu 96813.
Or send e-mail to bshimabukuro@starbulletin.com

Asterisk (*) after nutritional analyses in the Body & Soul section indicates calculations by Joannie Dobbs of Exploring New Concepts, a nutritional consulting firm.