The Weekly Eater
The Weekly Eater
Cuisine Tony
offers adventure
in Chinese fusion fareAmerica was founded on what 200 years ago were radical, progressive ideas, such as human equality, freedom from religious persecution and the individual pursuit of happiness. We've been regressing ever since to become a nation all in favor of equality as long as you're not a minority, gay or a woman in need of an abortion.
That said, we're still a nation of people quite intent on the pursuit of happiness, as much so as our predecessors who were genius at inventing new foods like Jell-O and Spam, and reinventing foods -- pizza and pommes frittes for starters -- of other nations to suit our go-go lifestyles.
In its emergence as a superpower, China seems to be quite the capitalist copycat and like us, is looking to the rest of the world for culinary inspiration. This kind of cultural swapping has gone on around the world for centuries. What would Louisiana cooking be without the contributions of the French and slaves from Africa, or Filipino food without the influence of Spain, or Macao without the flavors of Portugal? The early fusion cuisine is now accepted as "authentic," but I can imagine that at first the translations were likely awkward or diluted. British curry anyone?
In the last year, starting with Hong Kong Orchid Cafe, there have been several Chinese restaurants serving what might be dubbed New Mein. Just as Americans tried to produce non-threatening Chinese cuisine in the '50s, in the form generic chop suey -- you remember overdone shrimp Canton and bright red sweet-sour anything (hell, you might have become addicted to that stuff!) -- the Chinese are coming right back at us with their own kind of fusion cuisine.
DENNIS ODA / DODA@STARBULLETIN.COM
At Cuisine Tony, Roman von Schafritzel tries the oxtail stew while Virginia Wu tries the braised beef tendon soup noodle.
The latest purveyor of New Mein is Cuisine Tony on Kapiolani Boulevard across from the Pan Am building. You'll note immediately that it's not your typical Chinese restaurant, just by looking at its logo incorporating Chinese characters AND old English lettering. The setting is reminiscent of American-style coffee shops circa 1970, though thoroughly modern in its neutral color scheme.
MOST OF THE other New Mein restaurants have focused on pasta. Seems logical enough. After all, didn't Marco Polo lift noodles from the Chinese? Cuisine Tony reclaims the noodle and has set out to conquer Europe, offering the likes of Hungarian oxtail soup ($4.25), Russian lamb chops ($15.95) and Escargot de France ($5.95). But why stop with this planet? There's also Saturn pork chops ($8.95).
The menu draws a Hong Kong clientele familiar with a cuisine trendy in their part of the world, as well as European students hungry for a taste of home, but finding something, shall we say ... unique.
Those who enjoy gambling may find it amusing to guess what will arrive with each order. The Russian borscht ($3.95), instead of being a beet soup, is really tomato soup with vegetables ... with a few slivers of beef and a touch of what tasted like lemon grass. American hot wings ($5.95) came with celery and dressing, plus a pool of tomato and bell pepper sauce. And you would think a fillet of sole ($13.95) sautéed with lemon, herbs and white wine sauce -- such a simple recipe -- would come close to its Italian counterpart. Instead, coated in egg batter, it was like Korean fish juhn, though topped in Italian herbs.
DENNIS ODA / DODA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Meanwhile, waitress Susan Sing displays a souffle and a fillet of sole with white wine sauce.
African Chicken ($13.95) was tasty enough, if nothing like any African dish I've ever tried. The tomato and bell pepper sauce is sprinkled with lots of red pepper flakes to spice it up, and there's a hint of Chinese five-spice as well.
For dessert there is an excellent flan ($3.50), although they are quite proud of their soufflé ($4.50), which is little more than a plain egg-white meringue.
Well, give them time. The Chinese already build our computers and make our clothes. Someday they may be doing all the cooking too.
1617 Kapiolani Boulevard / 941-1234 CUISINE TONY
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight daily except 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays
Food Service Ambience 1/2
Value Cost: About $20 to $30 for two
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
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