Hawaii’s Back yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL
Fingers of lava, at 2,000 degrees, continue to create new land.
"Suddenly, just above, and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in the air. ... I think we all screamed, I know we all wept, but we were speechless, for a new glory and terror had been added to the earth. ... It was all confusion, commotion, force, glory, majesty, mystery and even beauty. And the colour! Molten metal has not that crimson gleam, nor blood that living light!"
'Majesty' and 'mystery' only begin to
describe the miracle of viewing a volcano flowFrom this description, 19th-century British author Isabella Bird, in her book "Six Months in the Sandwich Islands," was obviously enthralled by the magnificent fury of the Big Island's Halemaumau Crater. Though this fire pit slumbers today, Kilauea, the volcano where it's located, has been awake and active since Jan. 3, 1983. Scientists say there is no indication when the eruption will end.
If you can take the heat, literally, Hawaii Forest & Trail's "Volcanoes in the Sea" adventure leads you to within a few feet of Kilauea's lava flow.
"The 2,000-degree Fahrenheit lava often makes its way to the sea, creating massive, roiling clouds of steam," says Rob Pacheco, HFT's president and naturalist guide. "There is a surreal majesty to the violence of the lava hitting the ocean. Witnessing the creation of new land is a privilege for those fortunate enough to be there at the right time, and we make every effort to ensure that our guests are able to experience it."
Pacheco grew up in a farming community in Northern California. When he moved to Hawaii in 1990, he "discovered what an incredible natural laboratory the islands are. Their isolation and spectacular extremes of geography provided plants and animals with opportunities for change found nowhere else in the world. If Darwin had stopped here instead of the Galapagos, he probably would never have left."
In 1993, Pacheco founded Hawaii Forest & Trail, which has since earned recognition as one of the top outfitters in the state.
HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL
Lava from Kilauea flows into the ocean creating massive clouds of steam.
"I think where we excel is our emphasis and commitment to the interpretive experience," Pacheco says. "Our guides' job is to form a connection between themselves and their guests, and then help guests connect with the environment they're in. This isn't just a matter of giving information, it's a process that communicates values, ideas and universal themes. When this happens, people view a place much differently and connect with it at an emotional, intellectual and, hopefully, spiritual level."
The VOLCANOES in the Sea excursion is a prime example of HFT's goal to educate as well as entertain. Most of the trip to and from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park traverses the slopes of Mauna Loa, the largest single mountain mass on earth. The drive winds through coffee and macadamia nut orchards, native dry land and rain forests, and expansive grasslands. In the park, participants view amazing diversity in the landscape, from smoldering steam vents and massive pit craters to ebony fields of smooth pahoehoe lava and lava tubes draped with veils of mist and lush ferns.
Binoculars poised, sharp-eyed birders can spot a variety of native species, including the apapane, a Hawaiian honeycreeper colored red and black; the yellow-and-green amakihi, which nests in crater walls and flies out to sea to feed on fish; and the omao, a shy thrush with a distinctive call.
HFT's guides share intriguing tales of Pele, the tempestuous volcano goddess, and her stormy relationship with her suitor, Kamapuaa, a god who was able to transform himself into an eight-eyed hog. They also point out the ohelo berries that Pele supposedly fancies, and ohia trees ablaze with crimson lehua, her favorite blossom and the official flower of the Big Island.
"Picking the lehua," the guides warn, "will bring rain."
Despite the five-hour drive time and six hours spent in the park, Pacheco claims, "Volcanoes in the Sea is one of our best trips for families. It's a great way for kids to learn about volcanoes. Right now we can walk up to the flow in a few minutes from the end of Chain of Craters Road."
Where: Meet at Hawaii Forest & Trail's headquarters at 74-5035-B Queen Kaahumanu Hwy., or arrange for pickup at select resorts from Keauhou to the Kohala Coast. Volcanoes in the Sea
Call: 808-331-8505 on the Big Island or 800-464-1993 from the other islands
Time: Participants need to arrive at HFT's headquarters by 7:30 a.m. The daily tour departs at 8 a.m. after breakfast and an orientation. Approximate return time is 7 p.m.
Cost: $145 for adults and $105 for children ages 5 through 12. Includes transportation to HFT if needed, a continental breakfast, deli lunch, bottled water, rain gear and use of binoculars, day packs and walking sticks. A 15 percent discount is extended to kamaaina when booked direct.
Notes: Guests should not be physically challenged or unable to hike on uneven or rocky terrain. Nature walks range from a half-mile to 1.5 miles in length. Wear closed-toe shoes, long pants or shorts, and a jacket.
Web site: www.hawaii-forest.com
Isabella Bird's words "majesty" and "mystery" only begin to describe the miracle of this phenomenon. Exclaims Pacheco, "Just think, the lava has come from deep in the earth and is now making new land, and that these islands rose from the middle of the ocean, formed from one lava flow after another! The heat, the sounds and the smells of the flow stay with you a long time."
Once, he recalls, he was hired to take a man from Japan and his high-school-aged son on a private hike to the flow. The son wanted to be a geologist, but his father wanted him to go into business.
"He thought geology was boring," Pacheco explains, "so he brought his son to the volcano to get it out of his system."
When they reached the coast, a brilliant river of fire measuring several yards wide was streaming over a 15-foot ledge into the ocean.
"We sat there for two hours," Pacheco recalls. "The dad ended up shooting eight rolls of film, and his son was so excited that he was probably hooked on geology for life. I'm sure he didn't get a business degree!"
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer
and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.
