By The Glass
LYLE FUJIOKA
No need to be ashamed:
Real men do drink whiteJust prior to his death, I had the privilege to do a formal tasting with one of Napa's legendary pioneers, Joe Heitz of Heitz Cellars. Joe was a most gracious host, but also one of the most severe I had ever encountered. He had no qualms about addressing a pet peeve: "Lyle, I've now recorded your use of the term 'CAB' five times now. This is NOT a taxi stand. I have Cabernet Sauvignon -- not 'CABS.'"
Following that stern dressing-down, I wasn't quite sure of Joe's strategy when he inquired about what one wine I would want if I were stranded on a desert island.
Sitting in front of the winemaker who crafted the famed "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon, I declared my preference for red and stated that Pinot Noir was my choice due in large part to its versatility. Joe took dead aim at my eyes and sternly informed me that Chardonnay would always be his choice. Chardonnay's versatility from a cold cocktail on a hot day to its ability to be paired with steak provided the basis for his rationale. It was a surprise for me to have Mr. Cabernet Sauvignon expound the virtues of white wine.
Why reminisce about this story? Unfortunately, many new wine consumers (mostly men) are afraid they'll be perceived as wine wimps if they seek out anything other than the big reds. It's gotten to the point where we've detected a shy, embarrassed uneasiness in some men buying white wine: "I'm buying white for my wife/girlfriend."
Guys, we're not dealing with feminine hygiene products here. While the "bigger is better" mentality can be fun, I don't enjoy a big truck roaring down my palate on a daily basis. Limiting your wine exploration because of peer pressure is senseless.
As the ex-Marine Joe Heitz drilled into me, real men should appreciate white wine. Those familiar with Burgundy's Montrachet will attest to a white having more power and intensity than most red wines.
Here are some wines that may convince you that "white can be right":
Ceja Vineyards Chardonnay 1999 Napa ($27): When Pedro and Amelia Ceja first came to the shop seeking help placing their wines with a local distributor, my first words were of caution about how difficult promoting another Chardonnay would be in a market flooded with Chardonnay.
They assured me that their wine was special. WOW! Indeed, very special: New French oak seductively saturates the aromatics but is skillfully delivered on to the palate with perfect balance. Enticing flavors of baked apples and pear, enhanced with citrus notes, are full-bodied and buff.
This wine shows its stuffing when served at a cool temperature. Bring on the surf and turf -- lobster and steak. A glass of Ceja Chardonnay will complete the ménage a trois.
Trenel Saint Veran Chardonnay 2000 Burgundy ($13.95): A love affair with Pinot Noir always encompasses a sense of being captivated by this varietal's nuances of fragrance. White Burgundys offer similar aromatic pleasure and are as difficult to find at value levels as their red counterpart.
Trenel delivers its Chardonnay with a delicate floral nose, kissed with hints of orange peel and light minerals. The fruit flavors are clean and focused; the subtle oak treatment surfaces gently on the finish with a slightly toasty aftertaste. A stark contrast to so many California Chardonnays, which are clumsy, over-oaked and overly alcoholic.
Novellum Reserve Chardonnay 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc ($6.95): Beaujolais lovers will connect with Novellum. It offers an uncomplicated but totally satisfying expression of ripe, sweet fruit: Perfumy floral notes are underscored with vanilla custard.
Creamy and round on the palate, the ripe flavors of pears and melon take on the character of liquid chutney. I took a bottle of Novellum to my favorite Indian restaurant, Café Maharani, and it paired wonderfully with a full range of spicy dishes -- from tandoori prawns to lamb curry.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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