The Weekly Eater
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Sea Fortune's closing last summer left a big puka in the heart of Chinatown, one that could not easily be filled. Institutions just can't be replaced overnight. Golden Palace helps
Chinatown retain its flavorWith so much square footage to fill, it takes a lot of daring to open a restaurant while people are still feeling skittish about economic uncertainty. I'm glad Howard Lam decided to take that chance before the ground floor of 111 N. King St. could be turned into an election campaign headquarters. Let the politicians settle elsewhere.
Lam opened Golden Palace Seafood Restaurant last month as we approached one new year, and now the lunar one, which begins Feb. 12. Talk about a time of renewal, the room is looking a little more luxurious -- done up in auspicious red and gold, with chairs accented by inlaid mother-of-pearl -- than anyone would have believed possible when it was Sea Fortune, a no-frills sort of restaurant.
In spite of the new dress, "no frills" also applies to Golden Palace, which is more like a dependable friend than exciting stranger.
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By day, the dim sum carts make their rounds. At first the selections left much to be desired, but Saturday and Sunday morning patrons accepted thick wrappers and loosely packed ingredients with a resigned, "What can you expect for $1.50?" -- the price of each steamer basket full of goodies. Golden Palace has improved in a month's time, although the kitchen still can't match the variety offered by Sea Fortune or Legend. And while those who love seafood will be pleased by all the shrimp and scallop dumplings available, those with seafood allergies must continue to be on guard. Even the pork hash and chive har gau contain large portions of chopped shrimp.Sea Fortune could never fill its tables at night, though its managers tried all manner of specials and buffets. Similarly, you can have your choice of any table at nights at Golden Palace. In spite of the cavernous room, the food is hole-in-the-wall cozy, and the simpler the better. You're being optimistic if you're thinking kung-pao chicken ($6.95), which has no fire, or even crispy-skin chicken ($9.50 half, $18 whole), which is more chewy than crackly.
I've been content with nothing fancier than pan-fried e-mein ($6.25), soft flat noodles tossed with vegetables in a light gravy, or fried rice with salted fish and diced chicken ($6.95), when paired with deep-fried stuffed (with shrimp, of course) tofu ($6.95), and wok-tossed sea bass with broccoli, baby corn and black mushrooms ($8.95).
As an introductory special that will continue to Chinese New Year, the restaurant is offering a $28 dinner for four, that includes one lobster or crab. Call ahead to check on availability. When I tried to get the deal, they had no lobster. Any other time, crab would have been a luxury, but hmmm, when given the choice ... at that price ... sorry, lobster wins out. Even so, the crab was delicious, pan-fried with ginger and onion, the meat sweet and fresh.
The special starts with the soup of the day, which was a home-style, healthy brew of leafy bok choy. Then, in addition to the lobster or crab, you can choose three entrees from 37 selections. Out went the stir-fried eggplant ($6.75 a la carte), with its overly plummy sauce, and the pork hash with salt egg ($5.50 a la carte), a boat of a helping that actually reminded me of a pink rubber slipper.
I tried to go healthy by ordering the black mushrooms with oyster sauce. What was I thinking? The glistening round caps looked like sea creatures lying in wait. The colors, black and brown, were not appetizing at all. It actually tasted better than it looked and, in spite of the oyster sauce was not salty at all, but food needs a dash of color to be palatable, I think.
What's left? Roast duck, lots of sea bass, beef and vegetable combinations, lemon chicken, ma-po tofu, and duck feet with black mushrooms for the true Chinese.
Beyond the shellfish and sea bass, the choices aren't all that exciting, but that's the feeling I get here anyway, that of sitting back and chillin' with friends. No thrills needed.
It would be nice to include one of the hot-pot casseroles on the list of choices, particularly the one with taro and chicken ($7.95). But what do you expect for $28?
111 N. King St. / 521-8268 Golden Palace Seafood Restaurant
Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Food 1/2
Service Ambience Value Cost: About $30 for four without drinks
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
