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The Weekly Eater
BEING a rock star was my idea of a dream job long before and a few years after rock died in 1994. Failing to become the next Gwen Stefani or Fiona Apple by then, I settled for everyone else's -- so they tell me -- dream job. North Shore Cafe wipeout
Think about that myth for a moment. You know what's out there. How much is really desirable?
The worst is, while everyone else grins and coos through a wretched meal, I'm the one charged with telling restaurateurs their baby is not the prettiest creature on the block. Never mind that at any time, a fifth of patrons will agree with me. (I break the sentiment down this way: love, like, indifference, dislike, hate.) The restaurateur will never know this because diners are strange. They'll tell the waiters "everything's fine" even as they're plotting never to return.
All of this entered my mind while sitting in North Shore Cafe. It's the kind of place where you'd do best by sticking with the basics. Go exploring and you'll likely trip some mines. Kablooey!
Food NORTH SHORE CAFE
1/2
Atmosphere
Service
Value
Address: North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Highway
There's not much reason to look beyond appetizers and salads at night. I was most encouraged by the Poki Lau ($10.95), filled with seared poke with ogo accompaniment. Sunset Ceviche ($8.95) arrived drowning in lime juice so not a trace of flavor in the diced avocados remained, but this was passable compared to what followed.
Saffron Seafood Stew ($19.95) was simply tomato soup filled with overcooked shellfish, and I'd never had to saw through "slow roasted" Prime Rib ($18.95) before.
If you're living outside Haleiwa, chances are you're not going to visit in the evening but by day. I imagined this would be safer. I thought of trying the Steak Sandwich ($8.95), but remembering the Prime Rib, I grew fearful and opted for the Crab Cake Sandwich ($6.95). This and the fish-filled Seafood Cake ($7.95) were coated with the same hard shell. Scallops ($8.95) on a Caesar Salad were bland afterthoughts.
The cafe offers burgers also, but for that, I'd simply head straight for Kua 'Aina.
As much as I beat up on chefs, I respect the work they do, and while they probably wish they could disown me, I regard them as family in a way. Chai's woes
Learning of Chai Chaowasaree's troubles with the Immigration and Naturalization Service was a blow. He's long been a culinary presence, steadily building his business and sharing his success with the community by donating his time and money to benefit projects, providing jobs and offering his restaurant as a venue for local musicians. What could be more American than success?
I met Chai when he was handling his own public relations. I knew he was a tireless worker, alert to details, but on my last call to the restaurant a month ago, I was amazed to hear his voice. "What are you doing answering the phones!?," I scolded, knowing he probably had a million other tasks to manage.
Our government has its laws for the sake of a stable society, but laws are not always just.
If Chai is deported we will lose more than we gain. Those who want to write letters on his behalf may send them to manager John Delaney at Chai's Island Bistro, Aloha Tower Marketplace, Honolulu, HI 96813.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
