Advertisement - Click to support our sponsors.

By Ken Sakamoto, Star-Bulletin
John Doty, left, and Harold Ohata of the Wine & Food
Society check out the contents of the group's wine cellar
at JMD Beverages. Among their most valuable vintages
are a Grand Vin Chateau Latour 1988 and a Chateaux
Margaux 1988, about $400 each.

Enjoy a
wine-friendly feast

---

By Betty Shimabukuro
Star-Bulletin

Harold Ohata holds the formidable title of president of the International Wine & Food Society, Honolulu Branch, an exclusive group with a $90,000 wine cellar.

But on this evening in early November, he is greeting guests to the society's early Thanksgiving feast wearing shorts and T-shirt, covered in a smoky film. He has just finished barbecuing a whole suckling pig -- something this CPA learned as a Boy Scout leader.

And somehow, this picture sums up this organization of the friendliest gastronomes you'll ever meet. They love food, are serious about wines (especially French) and pay well for this particular pleasure ($500 to buy into the wine cellar, plus $200 annual dues, plus a fee for each monthly event). Membership is by invitation only. Their December event will be black-tie.

But this is also a group that can chow down on pig and turkey off of paper plates, washing it down, of course, with a couple cases of wine. Some of them are wine-geeky, but most are not. The idea is not so much to wallow in exclusivity as it is to enjoy the company of like-minded friends, Ohata says.

He joined five years ago, he says, "because I enjoy good wine, good food, good company, good conversation -- and you meet a lot of nice people."

These are the ingredients of a hearty, happy Thanksgiving meal, so toward that end, Ohata shares these recipes for a wine-friendly holiday dinner.

He prepared both for the group's November gathering, along with the suckling pig, which we leave off this menu in the interests of practicality.

Except for the flavor injector (sold at kitchen specialty shops) needed to do the turkey just right, this is a pretty uncomplicated way to introduce a little flair to your traditional home buffet. To complete the meal, add tossed greens, some steamed or roasted red potatoes and pumpkin pie.

Ohata is a cook who works on the throw-it-in-the-pot philosophy, so measurements here are approximations. In the case of the clams, for example, he typically makes 50 pounds at a time, in four batches, using two jars of Italian seasoning and a 750-milliliter bottle of vermouth in the process.

Wok-Steamed Clams

3-4 cloves garlic, smashed
1/2 stick butter
1-2 tablespoons Italian seasoning
1/2 cup vermouth
6 pounds live manila clams

In a wok, saute garlic in butter, then add Italian seasoning and vermouth. Bring to a boil, then add clams. Toss until clams open.

Approximate nutritional information, per 10 clams: 225 calories, 14.5 g total fat, 8 g saturated fat, 70 mg cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 14 g protein, 5 g carbohydrate.*

Wine- and Herb-Marinated Turkey

1 20-pound turkey
1 whole apple (see note)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons rock salt
Marinade:
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
8 cloves garlic, smashed
2-3 tablespoons Italian seasoning
1 1.5-liter bottle Chardonnay
Basting juice:
Gizzard, heart, liver and neck from turkey
2-3 cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
8-10 peppercorns

Combine marinade ingredients and place, with turkey, inside of two large plastic bags (clean kitchen trash bags work well). Seal well with twist ties and place in a pan. Refrigerate overnight, or up to 24 hours, turning occasionally.

To make basting juice: Combine ingredients in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer until organ meat is tender. Strain. Set aside.

Remove turkey from bags. Strain marinade. Discarding liquid and rub solids onto the turkey, inside and out. Stuff cavity with rosemary sprigs taken from marinade, and apple. Rub outside of turkey with olive oil and rock salt.

Note: The cavity may also be stuffed loosely with a whole onion, celery ribs or other fragrant vegetables. Do not overstuff.

Just before baking, use flavor injector to inject basting juice into the leg and thigh meat.

Place turkey in baking pan and cover with foil. Bake at 350 degrees until an internal temperature of 180 degrees is reached, about 3 hours. Serves 20.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 450 calories, 21 g total fat, 5 g saturated fat, 170 mg cholesterol, 670 mg sodium, 51 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate.*

Wine notes: These dishes were served with a 1998 Cornaro Pinot Grigio for the clams and a 1998 Murphy Goode Chardonnay for the turkey.

Other possible choices to accompany the clams would be a dry rosè, such as Beavignac or Bonny Doon.

If you'd prefer a red with the turkey, try a Gamay, Pinot Noir or Sangiovese. Suggestions include Beaujolais Nouveau or a more serious Saint Amour. For a Sangiovese, consider Santa Christina. All these reds should be served slightly chilled.

Click for online
calendars and events.