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The Weekly Eater
KEVIN Tate has landed. That may not mean much to you, but for a bunch of University of Hawaii students, circa 1993 to '95, Tate is considered a god just for masterminding Cajun and Italian theme nights at Gateway Hall, sparing them from the usual cafeteria fare. Strut on over
to Two BootsIt was one of those students who helped him to name his catering business, Kevin's Two Boots, by pointing out that Louisiana and Italy are both shaped like boots. (Someone must have been drinking way too much that night.) The imagery stuck and Kevin's Two Boots is the name carried over to the restaurant in Kailua, even though the Italian menu has largely been given the boot in favor of the Cajun half.
Kevin's Two Boots
Tate occasionally surfaced to tease Kailua residents with a few dishes at the annual "I Love Kailua" town parties, where many urged him to open a restaurant so they could enjoy his fare more than once a year. He obliged two months ago.Food1/2
Atmosphere
Service
ValueAddress: 35 Kainehe St., Kailua
"Everybody loves his food!" said Holly Turl, president of the Lani-Kailua Outdoor Circle and wife of "I Love Kailua" chairman Wayne Turl. But there is a danger in loving his food too much. His Crabmeat au Gratin ($8.95) appetizer is a dish you can't stop eating, even though, with its Jack, Romano, Parmesan and one mystery cheese, your doctor would say you probably should.
First, you've got to find the place. Kevin's Two Boots is in a non-descript, nearly vacant office building. Passing by one day when it was closed, I assumed it would be a dark, dingy bar, and the first time I visited, I dressed accordingly.
Surprise! While the decor probably won't please everybody, I found it amusing and decadent, very New Orleans and very Elvis, with its mix of pink walls, black tablecloths and dark purple linens. I later apologized for appearing in a sweatshirt, but Tate said, "People come in here all dressed up and I don't know why. They don't have to."
It's a come as you are place, with come and git it cuisine. Some appetizers are heavy enough to make a meal. For instance, there's a 7- or 8-ounce slab of Atlantic Salmon ($8.95) that is dusted with Cajun spices, grilled and served with foccaccia. Pair that with a mild Caesar salad with its eggless dressing ($4.95) and you're set.
Seafood Gumbo's ($13.95) on the menu, as is spicy Jambalaya ($11.95) made with andouille straight from the Crescent City.
Shrimp Etouffee ($13.95) never tastes quite as exotic as its name sounds. Even so, Tate's version is better than many I've sampled in New Orleans.
Pressure-cooked Honey BBQ Baby Back Ribs ($15.95) were inspired by Tate's late grandfather who had no teeth. "He'd tell me, 'If the meat ain't fallin' off the bone, you're doin' something wrong.' "
Yep. They're tender enough for diners to leave nothing behind but clean bones, but I'm sure Tate would be man enough to agree that his sauce could use a little work to add interest beyond the expected sweetness.
If you can stand one more morsel, don't miss the cheesecake ($4.95) made dense with chunks of sweet potatoes, topped with homemade pralines.
"Tell a thousand of your friends about us," waiter John Pearson called as I left. Done.
Note: "I Love Kailua" Town Party next takes place 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. April 9 and Kevin's Two Boots will be there.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
