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Star-Bulletin Features


Wednesday, January 26, 2000


art

Valentine wines:
silk in a bottle

With February comes Valentine's Day, a day of wine and roses and that special someone.

You're on your own in the flowers and companion department, but our wine panel has come up with some delectable suggestions for adding a little liquid romance to the occasion.

Richard Field

Owner of R. Field Wine Co.

Bullet Kendall-Jackson late-harvest Chardonnay, California, $17.99 (375 ml): Valentine's Day dinner presents a great chance to try a sweet dessert wine to match your sweetheart. And because sweet wines are enjoyed in smaller amounts, a half bottle goes a long way. Believe it or not, you can make a dessert wine from America's favorite white grape, Chardonnay. Kendall-Jackson just released a rare bottling of a late-harvest Chardonnay that is easy to love and lusciously rich.

Bullet Alize Red Passion Liqueur, France, $15.99: Leave it to the French to add passion to a beverage. Seductive passion fruit is combined with refreshing cranberry juice and warm Cognac. And the craze this time of year is to mix that half and half with champagne to make "Red Passion Champagne."

Lyle Fujioka

Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants

Bullet Torbreck "Descendent" Shiraz/Viognier 1998, Australia, $59: View Torbreck's "Descendent" as the stunning offspring of the classic love affair between the Beauty and the Beast. Beautifully perfumed Viognier adds incredible dimension to beastly, purple/black Shiraz. The aromatic senses are intoxicated with acrobatic notes of ripe berries, grill, spice, minerals and violets. On the palate, this wine delivers decadent red, ripe fruit -- powerful tannins yet is oh so silky. Expensive? Yes, but it's Valentine 2000 and the two of you deserve to transcend the mundane.

Bullet Lincourt Pinot Noir 1998, California, $14.95: Let's focus on the varietal that speaks to the heart, Pinot Noir. Value capable Cupid has a domestic arrow in his quiver that has smitten our heart. Lincourt's '98 release out of Santa Barbara defines affordable Pinot Nior -- spice-laden strawberry/cherry scents assail the nose and set a tone of palate appreciation. No broken promises. Ripe, almost jammy, cherry flavors infused with bitter-sweet accents are smooth and satiating. The perfect Valentine dinner -- roast chicken or grilled salmon served with Lincourt Pinot Noir.

Chuck Furuya

President of Fine Wine Imports

Bullet For food, we are recommending the 1998 Big House Red (California, $13.28) from the innovative Bonny Doon Vineyard. Ripe, juicy, jammy, somewhat peppery, this is a wine ideal for Mediterranean and Italian inspired foods, as well as hearty recipes like meatloaf, hamburger and other grilled treats.

Bullet For great value, 1997 Vinas del Vero Chardonnay (Spain, $10.99), an elegant, "mountain grown" Spanish Chardonnay. The wine's lemony edge is both refreshing and food friendly. Think fresh seafood and light pasta dishes.

Bullet With romance in mind, Agrapart Blanc de Blancs (France, $35.99), is all about elegance and finesse. Of Grand Cru quality, toast with it, sip and talk, have with food, this is the quintessential wine for Valentine's Day.

Bullet For dessert, try the 1997 LaTour Vieille Banyuls (France, $25.84), a fortified red wine from southern France, which should be served chilled. They drink it as an aperitif, but we are recommending it for chocolate based desserts.

Jay Kam

President of Vintage Wine Cellar

Bullet 1998 Clos de Nouys Vouvray, France, $13.99: Wines from the Loire Valley of France are overlooked and offer great value. Vouvray is a region within the Loire Valley that produces light, fresh, fruity and ever so slightly sweet wines from Chenin Blanc grapes. An appropriate wine for a picnic, an evening stroll along the beach or relaxing in the hot tub. If food is on your mind, it would go well with any type of Asian food -- Thai, Vietnamese or Chinese -- and light seafood dishes.

Bullet Roederer Estate Brut Rosé, California, $25.99: Roederer Estate in California's Anderson Valley is one of the best U.S. sparkling wine producers and makes an affordable non-vintage Brut Rosé. Rosé sparkling wines are noted for their pretty pink color and fruitier flavors compared to normal champagne. This bottle is fun enough to enjoy while taking a bubble bath with your partner, classy enough to match foods such as duck confit and elegant enough to go with chocolate-dipped strawberries.


Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. To produce the wine column, the Star-Bulletin asks each expert on its panel to recommend a pair of wines, at least one of which must retail for about $10. Retail estimates on Chuck Furuya's recommendations are provided by Richard Field as Furuya's company does not set retail prices.



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