The Weekly Eater
THE Chart House at Haiku is known as the wedding place, thanks to its beloved, photogenic grounds. The food is so-so, but acceptable if only because wedding banquet food is almost always so-so. After all, nothing is allowed to outshine the bride on her day. Well, the view is nice
Now, Chart House Enterprises Inc. wants to be taken more seriously. Fifty of the company's restaurants are being remodeled and a new national menu boasts "some exciting ideas in cuisine," according to Tim Perreira, vice president of concept and development.
By "new," he's talking Seared Ahi, Teriyaki Beef Medallions and Sesame-Crusted Salmon -- in other words -- stuff we've been eating for at least 12 years, or a lifetime for teriyaki.
The Chart House's strength is still its salad bar ($3.95 with meal; $12.95 as entree), which starts out with basic greens, or Caesar salad. There is also potato salad, pasta salad, hearts of palm, fresh fruit and all the usual toppings and dressings.
As for the rest, stick with items least likely to offend, such as a basic Shrimp Cocktail ($9.95). I didn't care for much for an appetizer of Coconut Shrimp ($8.95) covered mostly with batter; the Crunchy Calamari Medallions ($5.95) fared a little better. Seared Pepper Ahi ($9.95) was as good as ahi usually is, though the pieces, sliced nearly as thin as a quarter, seemed skimpy. An accompanying lemon-vodka sauce tasted mostly of mustard.
Food THE CHART HOUSE
Service1/2
Atmosphere
Value
Address: 46-336 Haiku Road
Mahimahi ($21.95) was topped with red pepper pesto, which, though spicy, still tasted as if it came straight from a jar. Rack of Lamb ($20.95) was painted black with barbecue sauce that might as well have been teriyaki for all its nuance.
Chart House has a Copper River King Salmon promotion running through mid-June. The end date is flexible because it depends on how long the fish -- the largest and most prized of all salmon from the Copper River delta in southeast Alaska -- is available.
Maybe you'll have better luck catching this salmon than I did.
The promotion started last Wednesday. By Friday they had run out. I was told on different occasions that the fish would be available Saturday, then Monday, then Tuesday, when I found out that Kincaid's was running a similar promotion, so I went there instead.
As a reporter I should have chased the Chart House salmon to the end. As a consumer, I don't have that kind of patience.
SALMON RUN
No fuss, no messing with bait or tangled lines, your best bet to land a salmon dinner is at Kincaid's, roughly through June 11.Copper River King Salmon rules the Ward Warehouse restaurant's Alaskan Seafood Festival. You can try the rich, buttery salmon fillets, prepared differently each week, at about $23.95 to $24.95 for lunch or up to $27.95 for dinner. It may be kiawe-grilled with toasted hazelnut butter, or enveloped in a honey-peppercorn crust.
To better taste the fish, go for the simplest treatment possible, as in having it basted in a little garlic vermouth butter and kiawe grilled. Avoid the pasta dish, which has only a small sprinkling of smoked salmon. Call 591-2005.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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