PASTA is an iffy thing to bring to Waikele, land of the plate lunch. All those wimpy noodles can't possibly compete with a bento or a massive barbecue beef, chicken or shortrib plate. Pasta comes to
Waikele, with styleWith pioneering spirit in the tradition of Lewis & Clark, Pasta Italia has dared to open in Waikele Center, home of the outlet stores. Pasta has succeeded in other neighborhoods, so why not go west?
At a glance, it seems that a pasta lunch or dinner will be far more costly than a plate lunch. That's because diners get caught up looking at all the appetizers, soups and salads. No one says you need those; you just want Sauteed Mushrooms ($5.50), Deep-Fried Calamari ($6.50) and a half-dozen Steamed Clams ($5.95). The latter are said to be sauteed in white wine, garlic and butter, but the soupy dish has a richness that suggests having been started with broth or stock. For a dollar more, you can have the clams with a few thin slices of Italian sausage and mushrooms, but these don't add much to the dish.
It's possible to skip the appetizers because the staff delivers enough French bread to keep diners sated until something more substantial arrives. You can butter up that bread or go Euro, dipping it in olive oil and vinegar -- red wine, not balsamic -- you combine at the table. This is another one of those "Italian" restaurants where most of the staff appears to be Asian, but this doesn't seem to be one of the post-Castagnola clones. The menus are comparable in liberal use of garlic and salt, but this one has a slight edge in quality of produce used.
Entrees start at about $6.95 for your basic Eggplant Parmesan or $6.50 for your basic Fettuccine Alfredo. Add Spicy Chicken and Mushrooms to the latter and the price is $7.95; with shrimp it's $11.95.
PORTIONS are generous. Lunch often leaves leftovers for dinner. I ended up taking home a big portion of penne ($6.95), simply tossed with olive oil, plenty of garlic, grilled zucchini, red bell pepper slices and pine nuts -- a great dish for vegetarians.
Another good vegetarian offering is the Spaghetti Marinara tossed with garden veggies and mushrooms ($7.95). The marinara sauce has a warm, sweet flavor, without the acidic or sour quality sometimes associated with tomato products. One can opt to top the basic Spaghetti Marinara with Crispy Calamari ($7.50), Meatballs ($6.95), Seafood ($11.95) or Italian Sausage and Bell Peppers ($7.50).
For those who still can't stop thinking of meaty plate lunches, you may not look back after sampling Veal Saltimbocca ($9.95), sauteed in a butter sauce of sage, prosciutto and white wine. Or try the New York Steak ($9.95), served in a red wine sauce with capers and tomatoes.
Seafood lovers will eagerly dive into the Cioppino ($11.50) with shrimp, clams, mahimahi, mussels, squid and new potatoes.
For dessert, there's tiramisu, but if your only aim is to compare this version with others, don't be wasting your time with this one.
Pasta Italia: Waikele Center, 94-799 M Lumiaina St., Waipahu
Hours: 10:30 to 10 p.m. Mondays to Fridays; 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays; and 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays. Breakfasts are all-American eggs and bacon, etc.
Prices: About $15 to $30 for two for lunch or dinner
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
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