CAN you feel it? The first nip of fall weather? Mainland types scoff at the notion of changing seasons in Hawaii, and though we know better, we don't have much accommodating to do beyond digging out the heavy jacket and tossing an extra blanket on the bed. Greet autumn with
a taste of Kona crabWe are accustomed to spring's harvest of asparagus and summer's bounty of corn, but these events don't exactly send us rushing to the markets or dancing in the streets.
Markus Greiner, executive chef for the Kahala Mandarin Oriental, would like to change that. The chef hails from an area of Germany known for its white asparagus. "When it appears in May, people get so excited. It's only available for two months.
"In Europe and on the mainland, people are very aware of the season of things. I don't find that here. I'd like to have that connection again."
The chef is doing his part to stir up more appreciation for seasonal treats by hosting a string of festivals which began with a local Kobe beef event a few months ago. "The idea is to celebrate with guests a product which is at its peak," Greiner said. "It's a big trend, to go back to basics, back to nature, to know where everything comes from."
His current inspiration is Kona crab. Hoku's Kona Crab Festival continues through Saturday, and at this point, you'll have to scramble for the few seats available.
IF it makes you feel better, I didn't get what I wanted either. By 8:15 p.m. premiere night, Monday, only one order of the Steamed Basket of Kona Crab and Friends ($38.50) remained. Helpful staffers informed me about this as soon as I was seated, but I dithered and dallied, and next thing you know, the guy at the next table had ordered it. Crab is best enjoyed simply steamed, but if you miss the basket, the next best dishes on the menu are the Salad of Kona Crab with Black Truffle Vinaigrette ($10.95) and Kona Crab and Grilled Waimanalo Corn Chowder ($9.50). I was happy with these two dishes alone, with a helping of fresh-baked bread.
In the salad, celery root is so finely slivered it blends in with shredded crab meat. It's hard to tell where one ingredient begins and ends. Chopped hazelnuts also add texture and flavor.
The chowder is made creamy with coconut milk and is topped with a surprise addition of a sweet Wok-Fried Soft Shell Crab.
Of course, you can't have crab on the menu without offering a crab cake. Greiner's meaty version, for $12.95, is accompanied by a Fire Roasted Heirloom Tomato Salsa and Chipotle Aioli.
In the entree department, there is Chilean Sea Bass with Kona Crab Ravioli ($34.95) and tender kiawe-grilled Wisconsin Veal Chop ($36.95). I didn't care for the Kona Crab Risotto that accompanied the latter dish, because of its intense fishy flavor.
Diners are not limited to the crab selections. The beauty of the festival menu is that it complements Hoku's regular offerings, while giving patrons a chance to try something new.
The chef has been on the job seven months and is still getting to know the community of farmers and fishermen. "I'm continually looking for people who can supply me with quality," he said.
Keep an eye out for future festivals: Hawaiian Shellfish in January and a Hawaiian Farm promotion in March which will showcase local produce. Each dish will comprise a range of ingredients from one particular farm. In April, Greiner will present a Chef's Summer Garden promotion with herbs and vegetables from the garden he is nurturing on the hotel grounds. And in fall, Kona lobster and crab will be on the table again.
Hoku's Kona Crab Festival: 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly through Saturday
Prices: Dinner for two about $85 to $100 without drinks
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
