

LET'S face it. Oktoberfest isn't about food. It's about Marzens and Jagermeister sloshing from giant steins at the various celebrations around town. Oktoberfest is loads
of fun, but itll cost youJust for the occasion, Ala Moana Hotel's Hibiscus Ballroom, best known as the site of polite receptions and a fashion show or two, has been transformed into a raucous beer hall. And OK, so the steins are your basic pitchers -- chalk it up to literary license -- but there's still a lot of guzzlin' going on.
On Tuesday, the opening night of the hotel's 28th annual Oktoberfest, the room was full of people of Old World ancestry, even if they couldn't say for sure how much of the German gene is in 'em; and plenty of kamaaina simply checking out the action.
Much of the credit for the festival ambience can be attributed to Herbert Marks and his Edelweiss Band, who really know how to move an audience to their feet, especially with the comical "Chicken Dance."
I didn't know what to expect since this was my first Oktoberfest at the Ala Moana, and I thought the experience should come with a price warning. A nominal fee of $5 per person today and Sunday and $10 per person Friday and Saturday will get you in the door and give you access to the music and dancing. I expected to pay more for drinks and a sampling of food, but not as much as is charged. If you plan on having dinner and a pitcher of beer, count on spending $30 or more.
By George F. Lee, Star-Bulletin
Revelers at Ala Moana Hotel's Oktoberfest
celebration do the chicken dance.
Two new lagers: This month Gordon Biersch celebrates the German holiday with traditional Oktoberfest cuisine and the addition of two brews--the Wisenhelles and Marzen. The Wisenhelles is a smooth, lightly hopped golden lager that has become a staple to modern day Oktoberfests in Germany while Marzen is the traditional lager enjoyed during the celebrations. Enjoy one-liter tankards for $10 and speciality 1/2-liter tankards of Wisenhelles for $7.50. Reserve at 599-4877.
Alfred's: Diners have more dishes to choose from at Alfred's through Saturday. In addition to Alfred's main menu, Chef Vollenweider is adding Oktoberfest morsels to his lunch and dinner menus. Lunch features daily German specials while dinner has a set menu that includes geraucherten schwarzwalder-schinken (smoked blackforest ham with rye bread and pickles); tartar beef steak; wiener schnitzel; eis meringues mit schlagsahne (meringues filled with ice cream and topped with freshly whipped cream) and apfelstrudel (apple strudel with vanilla sauce), just to name a few. For reservations, call 955-5353.
Ihilani Resort & Spa: This German celebration has a Hawaiian twist in its menu. Chef stations will be serving bratwurst and knockwurst with grilled Maui onion and sauerkraut; veal short ribs braised in honey porter; whole roasted island pig with braised cabbage; and other culinary creations, 7 p.m. Oct. 30. There also will be live entertainment and Sam Adams' beer. Cost is $55 per person. Reserve at 679-0079, ext. 2166.
THE set up is needlessly fussy. You have to buy scrip before standing in line to get your food. If you're somehow bad at math, or really indecisive, you could end up getting your food, then standing in line again for more scrip. Looking at the menu, I thought I had decided on the Smoked Porkloin ($12.50) but it looked pretty dry so I opted for the Brathahnchen (roasted half chicken, $8.75). Then at the last minute I decided to add an order of Knackwurst ($8.75). When all was tallied, my tab came out to $32.75. Whew! I only had $33 in scrip. At least they take credit cards in the scrip line -- lucky for me since I only had $4 cash after paying admission for two.
The knackwurst won't knock anyone's lederhosen off but it was great with plenty of mustard and German potato salad. The chicken was nice and crisp on the outside, even if the dish seemed a little too common for such a festive occasion.
Sauerbraten, or "sour roast beef" ($12.50), was dry, even though it looked tender and juicy on the steam table.
There was some room for dessert, such as the classic Apple Strudel ($4), Black Forest Layer Cake ($4) and Bienenstich, or Beesting Cream Cake ($4) which is like a cream puff in cake form, topped with honey and slivered almonds.
Again, at the end of the line, it took time to add up the cost. They hit you with extra charges for potatoes or sauerkraut, depending on what is supposed or not supposed to accompany your entree. Couldn't these be complimentary with any entree?
Like I said, come for the fun. If it's food you want, you're best off going to a restaurant. As one Ala Moana Hotel Oktoberfest guest offered, "The longer you stay, the better it tastes."
Oktoberfest at Ala Moana Hotel: In the Hibiscus Ballroom, 410 Atkinson Drive
Hours: 6 p.m. to midnight today; 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. tomorrow and Saturday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Admission $5 today and Sunday; $10 tomorrow and Saturday, does not include food and beverage costs; imported beer is $4.50, draft beer is $3.50, pitcher of draft is $12, soft drinks are $3
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