AT the Hawaii Prince Hotel, the longstanding Hakone serves up grace and serenity in formal teishoku and kaiseki dinners. Entree prices average $29 and the top of the line Matsukaze dinner will set you back $60. This is possible once a year. Casual dining at the
Prince is still deluxeEnter Takanawa Sushi Grill. With more pupu-style a la carte options than at Hakone, you can eliminate stuff you don't want and save some money. But caution is advised. The family- and conversation-friendly environment and coffee-shop lighting may lull you into believing this is a casual experience. Hawaii Prince "casual" is still pretty luxe.
If you're in a celebratory mood, it's fun to keep the sushi coming, but all those $6 to $9 selections have a funny way of adding up to $100 fast. I already have a game plan for my next visit, and it starts with ordering the portobello mushroom and steak sandwich ($4.50) which is destined to be a local classic. This dish comprises two 2-inch medallions of filet mignon, tucked between slices of mushroom. These are splashed with a dark, molasses-colored cabernet sauce swirled with a creamy citrus sauce. The steak is so velvety it's like biting into cheesecake. Eat both "sandwiches" and you'll probably feel the need to go on a diet. The minutes of pleasure are worth sacrificing a week of ice cream, chips and burgers.
After that appetizer, I'd take it easy, perhaps savoring a couple of my favorite sushi, or splitting one of the "California Combo" dinners with a companion. Combos feature miso soup and salad and a choice of three rolls for $16 or two rolls for $13. The three rolls are the basic California; the Takanawa Cafe roll with avocado, shrimp and soft-shell crab; and the Maui onion and salmon roll, a powerful combination still best on a bagel.
THE most decadent pupu is the single broiled prawn for $5.50, topped with salmon roe and accompanied by a wasabi-cream sauce. It's disappearance leaves you wondering, "Is that all?" and prepares you for heavier entrees, such as an 8-ounce char-grilled rib-eye steak ($15), or the 4-ounce steak and broiled Maine lobster combo ($36).
Those who hate making decisions will appreciate the sashimi teishoku ($26) or Takanawa special bento ($32) with a California roll, 4-ounce tenderloin filet, sashimi, salad and miso soup.
Takanawa is not the place for fans of all-you-can-eat sushi, but with a little care, those on a budget will eat like a prince.
Takanawa: In the Hawaii Prince Hotel, 100 Holomoana St.
Hours: 6 to 9:30 p.m. daily
Prices: About $40 to $70 for two without drinks
Call: 956-1111
Diem, the Vietnamese restaurant at 2633 S. King St., now has a satellite cafe downtown at 801 Alakea St. Food at the mostly take-out cafe can't compare to the restaurant's fare, but for generally less than $5 for lunch, you get variety, a complimentary soft drink and a couple of bites of tapioca and banana for dessert. Cheap eats!
Pick up a take-out menu for at-home reading, otherwise you'll spend 15 minutes in line studying the many combinations, such as "shrimp roll + chicken salad + lemongrass chicken" ($5.20).
Don't miss the Vietnamese crepe, a sweet egg "omelette" with bean sprouts and a choice of chicken ($4.95), shrimp ($5.25) or tofu ($4.75) fillings. This comes with cold vermicelli and lettuce for wraps. Hours are 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. week days. Call 521-2221.
See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
section online. Click the logo to go!
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
