WHEN times are tough, people double up, whether it involves adult individuals moving back in with the 'rents or in-laws, coffee bars doubling as art galleries or two food proprietors sharing the same space. Fine, fresh fare
featured at the YWCAStay with me now. From Monday to Friday, Cheryl Ka'uhane and staff still serve up sandwiches and hot entrees at Cafe Laniakea at the YWCA. Old news. I told you all about this seven months ago.
On Sunday, it's another story. Two months ago, Matt Lau began serving up brunches under the name of The Fresh Market at Cafe Laniakea.
One place. Two separate proprietors working different days.
Lau describes his former Manoa endeavor, The Fresh Market, as "a prototype store. It was a place where I could try a lot of my ideas. I wanted to keep it as a local, community-based grocery, but add health-conscious, vegetarian fare, while keeping costs down. I wanted to create real value for consumers."
He found that many people shied away from vegetarian fare. These days at the Y, he's offering a broad menu to cater to a spectrum of palates. Sometimes, this means throwing everything onto one plate. Entrees are massive. THE setting at the Y is as pleasant as always, perhaps more so because it's Sunday and everyone looks so much more relaxed than on weekdays, dressed in casual, rather than stiff business attire.
You'd be feeling comfortable too, if you knew you were about to chow down on a tiger prawn cake with citrus Dijon butter ($8.75). The thick cake is studded throughout with a large dice of prawns. The sweetness of the sauce contrasts with a layer of bitter greens -- watercress and arugula the last time I visited.
But that's not all. Your entree is accompanied by two eggs, home-style potatoes, a fruit salad and small, powdery cream biscuit. These also complement other entrees of grilled rib eye steak ($9.25) on garlic-bleu cheese mashed potatoes and topped with peppercorn sauce; and a Mexican-style chicken-apple sausage hash ($8.65).
If fish is your wish, sample the smoked salmon benedict ($8.95) served atop spinach puff pastry with a rich mango hollandaise.
Those who crave a more traditional breakfast may opt for a two-egg omelette or two crepes. The cost is $5.95 for two fillings, $6.95 for three fillings and $7.85 for four or more fillings. I like that unlimited final option. Ham is always good, as are onions, mushrooms, spinach, veggies and goat cheese.
Another specialty here is the baked sweetbread French toast ($4.95), thick, fluffy slices topped with brandied cinnamon apples, raisins and whipped cream. Desserts such as sorbets, muffins and ginger pumpkin bread are also served, but you won't need any after the French toast.
The Fresh Market at Cafe Laniakea is tentatively set to continue through Aug. 16. If his deal with the Y is renewed, he'll likely be in business three months beyond that. If not, he promises this won't be the last we'll be hearing of him.
Hours: Brunch 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays
Prices: About $20 for two
Call: 524-8789See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
