IN a time of simplicity and small restaurant openings, a preview of chef Philippe Padovani's creations at Cafe Picasso promised a little more excitement than usual. But unless you're the sort who must try everything, you're better off waiting for the real deal. Chef Padovani
shouldn’t rush thingsPadovani's Bistro is scheduled to open later this year with a Mediterranean menu, wine bar and a moveable feast of hor d'oeuvres served from a silver trolley. Renovation work is going on in the first-floor dining room to bring it up to the chef's specs.
It made sense to try to sate curious souls by serving a few dishes in the hotel's bar, but this isn't the best arrangement for diners or chef.
Entrees are shuttled up and down stairs from the kitchen to Cafe Picasso by bartenders.
The menu is serviceable, about what one would expect from room service at a nice hotel. Missing are the extra details that would justify entree prices of $18 to $28. Consider that just across the street, Hilton Hawaiian Village is doing amazing things in Bali-By-The-Sea by hosting a series of signature dinners featuring talented chefs from across the nation.
In the house the past two weeks were chefs Josiah Citrin and Raphael Lunetta of Santa Monica, Calif.'s JiRaffe restaurant. A night before venturing to Cafe Picasso, I was spoiled by a meal prepared by Lunetta, which started with a ragout of lobster, morels, asparagus and poached quail egg, and a roll of crisp potato-encrusted ahi with velvety foie gras at its center. After that, an evening meal of Padovani's plain poached chicken and fettuccine ($18) in herb-cream sauce could not compete. Neither could the pan-fried mahimahi ($26), sprinkled with a little nori and served with orzo -- the rice-shaped pasta -- and diced summer vegetables, simple enough to be duplicated at home.
Not all was disappointing. Hawaiian sweet corn clam chowder ($7) made a wonderful starter. The creamy chowder had the extra detail of feathery strands of minced ogo. Shredded hearts of palm provided the base for a refreshing salad ($10) that also featured green beans, red onions and a light tomato vinaigrette.
A special entree of opakapaka topped with a mash of taro and garlic combined wonderful flavors and textures, although the accompanying sauce of sun-dried tomatoes was overkill.
Finish with Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate mousse ($8), or better yet, try the pannacotta ($12), or custard, of lemongrass, topped with lilikoi coulis and diced fresh mango, a seasonal treat.
Ideally, previews stir enthusiasm for a restaurant's opening. At this point, Padovani should take as much time as he needs.
Cafe Picasso: Doubletree Alana Waikiki Hotel, preview for Padovani's Bistro
Hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and 6 to 10:30 p.m.
Prices: $75 to $85 for two without drinks
Call: 941-7275
Twenty-five Hawaii restaurants are included in the 1998-99 Zagat Survey of America's Best Meal Deals ($12.95). The survey lists 1,411 restaurants in 35 cities, making it a handy guide for summer travelers trying to compensate for high plane fares off this rock! Cheap eats!
First in the Hawaii ranking is Ono Hawaiian Foods. The highest ranking nationwide went to New York's Soup Kitchen International, the inspiration for "Seinfeld's" "Soup Nazi" episode.
See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
