THERE are people concerned only with the number of stars a restaurant earns in a review. I understand. Time is short and reading's a chore. Who wants another long-winded columnist to blather on. Vegetarian fare
brought down to earthGuess I have to justify the paycheck, but really, I could easily give a review in a single word. My choices are: Good, junk and ehh, the latter word accompanied by a quick, two-time palm up, palm down maneuver, signifying so-so.
These are the words I automatically use in casual conversation anyway -- except in the case of Down to Earth. When my boss asked, "How was it?" I weighed the experience and came up with, "Well, it was down to earth."
I wasn't trying to be obnoxious or facetious. It was true of an experience that had a lot of heart, even if the food doesn't always get your jiggy meter jumpin'.
Anyone who has spent time in the university area is surely acquainted with the landmark natural foods store, even if they've never set foot in it.
Down to Earth celebrates its 21st year from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday with food samplings, entertainment and guest speakers. Appearing will be Dr. Terry Shintani, originator of the Hawaiian Diet (10 a.m.); nutritionist and former tennis pro Peter Burwash (4 p.m.); and the return of founder Kathy Hoshijo, author and host of PBS's "Kathy's Kitchen," who will offer vegetarian cooking classes from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 to 3:30 p.m. Down to Earth was founded in 1977 by a group of vegetarians with the most humanitarian aims. They believed they could save their fellow man from the ravages of an unhealthy diet and lifestyle, and save the planet to boot. Sounds naive, but they didn't give up even when the rest of us meat eaters failed to see the light, gorging on pork rinds and driving into oblivion in gas-guzzling SUVs.
WE'RE still students, and Down to Earth is here to help, offering an all-vegetarian menu that varies daily. You'll always find cold deli salads, a salad bar, soups, chili, hot entrees and desserts. The hot bar ($5.99 per pound) usually features a couple of potato dishes, a pasta dish and special items such as a superb tofu lasagna and cumin-spiced enchiladas -- one of the few items made with real mozzarella, provolone and cheddar.
Much as they try to dress up tofu with teriyaki or sweet-sour sauce, or serve it a la king style, it's shape and texture is unmistakable. I like tofu, but sorry, this woman can't live on tofu alone.
Spinach phyllo pie at least has an interesting texture, filled as it is with raisins, walnuts and spinach. With an abundance of raisins, it was sweet enough to be a dessert, rather than an entree.
The salad bar ($4.99 per pound) offers an array of toppings. I especially love the crunchy, nutty sprouted beans.
In the cold salad case, my favorites are the tabouli; a spicy noodle salad of pasta tossed with toasted sesame oil, fresh garlic, cayenne and green onions; and the "Earth & Sea Salad" of chewy hijiki (seaweed), corn, red bell peppers and cucumbers.
Health food is often associated with sacrifice, but I didn't feel that at all with decadent desserts of cherry or peach pie ($2.79 per slice) topped with rolled oats and cinnamon.
Much of this fare will be available for free sampling at Saturday's anniversary party. Go for it.
Down to Earth: 2525 S. King
Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: $5 to $8 per person
Call: 947-7678
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
