A few of the Rolling Stones gather for a meal in this scene from the foldout of "Beggar's Banquet." In this manner they might enjoy the feast imagined by Chef Les Hershhorn, if he were cooking for the Stones, which he isn't.

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You Got the Silver, we got the plates - Get Yer Ya-Yas Out with our Goat's Head Soup

By Catherine Kekoa Enomoto
Star-Bulletin

Tired of eating stone soup? A Rolling Stones potage will get your goat.

Lester Hershhorn, a Big Isle chef and blues promoter, has created a "Beggars Banquet" menu with "Goats Head Soup" - named for 1968 and 1973 Rolling Stones albums, respectively.

("The Rock Who's Who" guide called "Beggars Banquet" the Stones' finest, most coherent work. "Goats Head Soup" featured "Angie," a chart-topping single in the United States.)

A trio of chefs, all Stones fans who are leaving their neighbor-island haunts to take in a weekend performance on Oahu, created dishes for pre- and apres-concert gustation.

A globe-trotting culinarian, Hershhorn said the private West Indies isle of Mustique is reputedly "a preferred down-time hangout for the Rolling Stones."

He added that Mustique's cuisine adopted East Indian spices, courtesy of Dutch traders, as well as goat, an easily raised African protein source.

"Goat stew - or 'goat water,' as it is referred to in these islands - is a nutritious, hearty soup that is prepared from practically any bony, meaty cut of goat," he said. "And, of course, the head of this noble animal would be the perfect part to stew up in a delicious pot of goat's head soup."

Hershhorn's dish features one goat head, skinned and scrubbed, plus lots of fresh vegetables, Tabasco and fresh thyme.

"Goats' heads are available in the market from time to time all around the Big Island," he said. "They raise goats and people eat 'em. I've seen goat's head for sale, lamb's head too."

Home cooks may substitute a hog's head - or a couple pounds of fresh pork, for that matter - in place of the goat's head.

"Typically you leave the eyes in, that's pretty much how it's done. Whatever you want," Hershhorn laughed. "You dress the head without the brains," he added.

Meanwhile, Philippe Padovani offers a spectacular gourmet dessert. The French-born music buff is executive chef of Manele Bay Hotel on Lanai.

"I am forwarding a recipe to highlight the Rolling Stones - the greatest shooting stars!" said Padovani, who enjoys listening to vintage Stones albums. He has a collection of more than 250 CDs by various artists.

Padovani's Chocolate Shooting Stars dessert showcases Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate, fresh berries and ice cream on feather-light cake rounds. A mere 1,140 calories, but Mick can afford that.

Finally, Elizabeth Chin presents brandy-laced morsels named for the Stones' "More Hot Rocks (Big Hits and Fazed Cookies)" album of 1972. Chin is a pastry chef and Hershhorn's partner in Culinary Crusaders/World Cuisine of Volcano, Hawaii.

Her Fazed Cookies feature butter, molasses, spices and, "Hopefully, the alcohol in these cookies will faze you!" she said.

E voila! Stones fans and other gourmands can get satisfaction with a pair of sweets, and a West Indies-style soup with a whole goat head.

As Mick Jagger said in a 1985 interview, "You know, you've got to take chances in life. Nothing ventured, nothing gained."

Goat's head soup

By chef Les Hershhorn, Culinary Crusaders/World Cuisine

1 skinned and well-scrubbed goat head

1 gallon water

2 tablespoons white vinegar

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 pound unsalted butter

4 medium onions, coarsely chopped

2 medium bell peppers, seeded and medium chopped

4 large carrots, peeled and large diced

1 head of garlic, peeled, smashed and minced

2 quarts water

6 Irish potatoes, peeled and large diced

6 fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 cup tomato sauce

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce

5 sprigs fresh thyme

6 whole cloves

1/2 cup flour

In a large pot, combine 1 gallon water, vinegar and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, add goat's head and simmer 45 minutes. (As islanders says, this step "gets out the wild.") Remove head, set aside and discard liquid.

In the pot over medium heat, heat half of the butter. Saute onions, bell peppers, carrots and garlic 6 minutes or until lightly browned and onions are translucent.

To the pot, return goat's head and add 2 quarts water, potatoes, tomatoes, tomato sauce, parsley, Tabasco, thyme, cloves, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 2 hours.

In a saucepan, melt remaining butter and add flour. Make a roux by cooking over low heat and browning. Add hot roux to soup to thicken, stirring constantly, over medium heat. Correct seasoning and add more water, if needed. Serve with goat's head in serving tureen. Or, remove head, take off meat with fork and add to soup. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley. Makes 10 (20-ounce) servings.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, based on 2 pounds of meat total from goat's head: 600 calories, 40 grams total fat, 24 grams saturated fat, 150 milligrams cholesterol, 690 milligrams sodium. Per serving, based on pig's head: 625 calories, 43 grams total fat, 24 grams saturated fat, 150 milligrams cholesterol, 660 milligrams sodium.*

Rolling Stones' Chocolate Shooting Stars

By Philippe Padovani, executive chef, Manele Bay Hotel

Sponge cake:

1-1/4 cups cake flour

7 tablespoons sugar

1/8 teaspoon baking powder

Pinch salt

1/4 cup canola oil

2 eggs

1/4 cup water

4 ounces egg whites (about 4)

Pinch cream of tartar

4-1/2 tablespoons sugar

Black currant coulis:

1 cup black currant pulp

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup black currant liquor

Shooting stars:

6 ounces Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate

3/4 cups heavy whipping cream

Garnish:

2 cups mixed seasonal berries

4 scoops vanilla ice cream

4 sprigs mint leaves

To prepare sponge cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift cake flour, 3 ounces sugar, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, combine oil, 2 eggs and water; add to flour and mix until smooth. In another bowl, whip 4 ounces egg whites and cream of tartar, gradually adding 2 ounces sugar to form a stiff meringue. Fold flour batter into meringue and mix thoroughly. Pour entire batter into a paper-lined half-sheet pan and spread evenly. Bake 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and invert sponge onto a cooling rack.

To prepare black currant coulis and marinate berries: Blend pulp, sugar and black currant liquor. Strain coulis through fine sieve. Marinate berries in coulis.

To prepare shooting stars: Melt chocolate in a double boiler. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Using a whisk, whip to a thick ganache, gradually adding cream. Take a pastry bag with star tip and fill bag with ganache. On four (12-inch) plates, pipe 8 stars evenly around perimeter of each plate.

To finish plates: Cut sponge cake into 2-1/2-inch-diameter circles. Place 1 circle in center of each shooting star plate. Pour equal amounts of marinated berries on each sponge, letting fruits drizzle over. Scoop ice cream onto berries and garnish with mint sprig on the side. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, based on 1/3-cup ice cream per serving: 1,140 calories, 54 grams total fat, 24 grams saturated fat, 195 milligrams cholesterol, 350 milligrams sodium.*

Fazed cookies

By pastry chef Elizabeth Chin, Culinary Crusaders/World Cuisine

1/2 cup sweet brown sugar

1/3 cup unsalted butter

1/4 cup blackstrap molasses

1 tablespoon bar brandy

3/4 cup unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Line cookie sheet with aluminum foil and grease foil.

Mix brown sugar, butter, molasses and brandy. Mix in flour and spices until well-combined.

Drop batter from a level teaspoon 4 inches apart on cookie sheet. Bake only 4 or 5 cookies at a time at 350 degrees for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden brown.

Cool on cookie sheet about 2 minutes. Quickly remove cookies, 1 at a time and roll around a metal cone or dowel rod. Makes 50 cookies.

Note: These cookies may be dipped in melted chocolate.

Approximate nutritional analysis per cookie: 35 calories, 2 grams total fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 5 milligrams cholesterol, 5 milligrams sodium.*

Asterisk (*) after nutritional analyses in the
Body & Soul section indicates calculations by Joannie Dobbs of
Exploring New Concepts, a nutritional consulting firm.