TIME doesn't fly. It launches a stealth attack so that one year the Christmas rush begins the day after Thanksgiving; the next, it begins the day after Halloween. One day you're marveling over Kaypros and Ataris. Before you know it you're in an age of cable modems and gigabyte hard drives. Wok Express serves it
up hot and tastyWhy, in dining, there are still those living in the past who wonder what happened to the "romantic" restaurant, with dark, cozy nooks built for stealing a love bite or two. There are still those who long for grandeur. But these are the days of the incredible shrinking restaurant. Today's rooms are light, bright and moderate in size and scope. Tomorrow, they're likely to be smaller still. It has something to do with economics. More importantly, the little guys keep getting better!
Patti's Chinese Kitchen became a household name with its formula for express Chinese eats. Now Wok & Grill Express takes the idea a step further, cooking up hot wok specialties to order.
Those in a rush can still point and eat. Ready-cooked steam-table items are $3.65 for one item -- with a choice of steamed rice, fried rice, chow mein or chow fun -- to $5.09 for three items and a choice of starch.But those with a few minutes to spare will find it's worth the wait for such items as Salt & Pepper Shrimp ($7.20 for 12 pieces or $9.74 for 18). The shrimp were cooked to a supple succulence, while the shells achieved a brittle crispness so that even the tail was edible. You'd pay much more for less at Waikiki's white-tablecloth Chinese restaurants.
ALL items except the seafood are available plate-lunch style with choice of starches, at $4.99 to $5.28. A la carte prices range from $6.72 for such customary offerings as Minute Chicken and Sweet-Sour Pork, to $7.20 for Mongolian Beef or Pot Roast Pork.
One of the most popular dishes is Orange Flavored Chicken ($5.28 plate/$7.20 a la carte). These deep-fried morsels are bathed in a citrus sauce as silky as honey.
Kung Pao Chicken ($4.99/$6.72) lacks sizzle. Shrimp with Black Bean Sauce ($6.72 regular/$9.07 large) is also mild. I didn't mind, but true black-bean enthusiasts may be disappointed.
Gau gee in the Crispy Gau Gee Mein ($5.76) were filled with pure pork. Meat lovers will be happy about that, but I missed the texture and flavors that come from stirring green onions and minced water chestnuts into the mix. Otherwise, the broccoli and cauliflower topping the chewy noodles were wokked to a perfect crunch.
Roast Duck ($3.50) is great in a big bowl of soup noodles, but I can't say I care much for the pale, flabby noodles that can't match the Hong Kong-style noodles served in Chinatown.
With something for everyone, they also have pork hash at 35 cents a piece, manapua at 75 cents, whole roast duck for $10.25 and local-style barbecue plates starting at $3.36 for a mini.
Overall, this is some of the freshest fast food around. I don't imagine anyone would drive for miles to get it because Chinese food has been around so long, every community has its favorite little hole in the wall. But Wok & Grill Express is doing well in Wahiawa and with a little luck and encouragement, it's not hard to imagine they'll be competing with your neighborhood restaurant someday.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; to 8 p.m. Sundays
Prices: Less than $6 per person; $20 for two, family style
Call: 622-6688
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
