FORGET that sushi was born in the land of the rising sun. The fish-and-rice finger food is as all-American these days as Levi's and Elvis. While some continue to look East for tradition, thrill-seekers are looking west for novelty. Rock ’n Sushi
rolls up unique fareIt was Sushi Sasabune out of California that brought sushi made with warm rice to Hawaii. The Texas Rock 'n Roll Sushi Bar followed with its Tex-Mex innovations such as the Beef Fajita Roll with mesquite-smoked beef, grilled onions and peppers.
Not to be confused with the Texas-style sushi bar is California Beach Rock 'n Sushi. From the land of play comes a levity that allows the staff to have fun with food. You need only take a look at the Sushiman's Specials to get an idea of where these renegade spirits are coming from.
The Caterpillar ($8), for instance, is a 10-inch roll that snakes along your plate, past paper parasols and a beach chair fashioned from a slice of orange. Each section of the roll of rice, eel, tamago (egg) and slivers of cucumber is draped with saddles of fresh avocado, so that it really does resemble a caterpillar.
The Caterpillar's most distinguishing characteristic, however, are two tako, or octopus suction cup eyes. As satisfying as the combination was, no one wanted to bite into the creature's head while it was staring at us.If you think The Caterpillar would go over well on Halloween, perhaps tomorrow you should also check out the Tarantula ($8). I didn't order this because I didn't notice it on the menu until I was stuffed, but it was described to me as crisp soft-shelled crab rolled in rice.
Another touch of whimsy is offered in the form of Creamy Mermaids ($5.95), four pieces of shrimp, each tucked into a gyoza blanket with cream cheese. The mini sculptures are then deep-fried, making it a tasty, if sinful treat on all counts.
ON the more serious side, California Beach has all your nigiri favorites, as fresh as could be -- sea urchin (market price), sweet scallops ($3), tuna ($3), thick-cut yellowtail ($3) and silky salmon ($3).
In addition to the California Roll ($3.95) and Salmon Skin Roll ($3.95), there's also a Canadian Roll, similar to the California with rice and avocado, but made with salmon instead of crab.
Light eaters will be enthralled with Pacific Delight selections of stir-fries. These filling dishes of veggies only, or veggies with your choice of chicken, shrimp or bay scallops, run $4.50 to $4.95. The combination of vegetables includes bean sprouts, zucchini, yellow squash and mushrooms sauteed in garlic butter and topped off with a light ginger sauce.
Ginger also flavors the batter for kara-age ($3.95), fabulous bite-sized morsels of fried chicken. You may never go back to the colonel's after this.
Those with bigger appetites may opt for char-broiled New York Steak Teriyaki ($9.95), Tempura ($9.95), or select a combo of both ($12.50).
As for the rock 'n' roll part of the equation, it can get pretty loud on weekends. They may put on the Stones, Adam Ant (in his early '80s incarnation), Sublime or Madonna. No shamisens here.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; 5 to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 5 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays
Prices: Starts at about $24 for two
Call: 597-8000
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
