IF a burger is consumed in the country, is the experience superior to having that same burger plopped into a plastic basket in the big city? New Kua ‘Aina
needs time to settle inNo doubt, atmosphere counts in the enjoyment of food. I'd take an open-air beach environment over a chilly glass tomb any day. Beyond location, it should be obvious to anyone who frequents the Haleiwa Kua 'Aina, that the newly opened Ward Avenue version of the sandwich shop simply does not compare.
It's definitely good, very good. Those who have never been to the original Kua 'Aina will find themselves in heaven. But the rest of us are spoiled. Some sandwiches that are normally juicy, sloppy and super-sized in Haleiwa, are puny and sanitized in the new location. In the case of the burgers, the patties are actually pale. Where's that smoky, char-broiled goodness that helped create the Kua 'Aina legend more than 20 years ago?
Perhaps Kua 'Aina is trying to adapt to a sedentary sensibility. The North Shore's surf rats can down a half-pound burger with barely a ripple disturbing their taut tummies. The rest of us are fated to return to office chairs after such a meal and deal with a swell of belly flub threatening to envelope us. It's not pretty.
The puny sandwiches are the Mahi Mahi ($4.90) and Teriyaki Chicken ($4.90). On the North Shore, I'm accustomed to a thick, juicy piece of mahi overflowing the boundary of your choice of multi-grain wheat, rye bread or Kaiser roll. At Ward, you get anemic, coaster-size pieces of fish. Very disappointing.It's the same with the chicken, although the teriyaki flavor is well-balanced, neither too shoyu- nor sugar-heavy.
THE burgers seem to be the same size as in Haleiwa. That's why many town customers are opting to split a single burger and order of homemade fries ($1.35/$2).
A third-pound basic hamburger on a Kaiser Roll runs $4.60. The half-pounder is $5. A cheeseburger comes with a choice of Swiss, American, Monterey Jack, Cheddar or Provolone, at $4.90/$5.30.
All sandwiches come with lettuce and tomato. A burger with ortega peppers or pineapple runs $4.90/$5.30. An Avocado Burger runs $5.30/$5.70, but they've never had avocado on the days I've shown up. This meant diners were also out of luck if they were craving the BLT and Avocado ($5), Turkey and Avocado ($4.95), Roast Beef and Avocado ($4.95) or plain old Avocado sandwich ($4.10).
The more you can layer on the better, because the burger -- said to be splattered with vermouth and special seasonings -- doesn't have much flavor. Perhaps crucial steps in the kitchen are skipped in the haste to put food on the table.
The staff has been running on overwhelm. They tried to recreate the casual, walk-in, two-line ambience of the Haleiwa store, when what the crowd demands is a multi-window, long counter, McDonald's sort of set-up.
I watched an old man nearly get run over by three people who cut in front of him, not knowing where the lines began. There was one line for orders, one to pay, both enclosed by a semi-circle of people waiting 20 minutes for their sandwiches.
Ah well, any move requires some adjustments. Give 'em time.
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Prices: Under $7 per person
Phone-in orders: 591-9133
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
