GOLF Course restaurants rarely offer food to rave about, but in Leeward Oahu, Kapolei Club House restaurant at the Kapolei Golf Course breathes a little life into the near-barren culinary landscape. Dining on green
fits families to a teeDon't expect country-club digs. The no-nonsense patio furniture is meant to accommodate sweaty golfers after long, hard days of putting around. They probably don't mind the simple tables and chairs. As far as I can tell by the funny way they dress, golfers don't have much fashion sense.
One good thing is that the greens actually pass for landscaping and a view. That's something none of Waikele, Waipahu or Ewa's strip-mall restaurants can offer. It's less claustrophobic to sit outside at dinner time, just before the sun goes down. Outside, you can also escape the golf lessons on the restaurant's televisions.
The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is available for special occasions.In the day, coffee-shop and family-restaurant basics abound. There are Reuben ($7.50), pastrami ($7.45) and mahi sandwiches ($6.95) as well as plate lunches of teriyaki chicken ($7.25) and hamburger steak ($7.75). There are also salads, udon, soba and Japanese specialties.
A few families have caught on to the restaurant, and are dressing up for dinners of Japanese, Italian or all-American specialties.
Teishoku dinners start with miso soup and tsukemono. Then diners can choose from entree combinations such as Chicken Teriyaki/Pork Cutlet ($14), Beef Teriyaki/Pork Cutlet ($13.50), Sashimi/ Shrimp Tempura ($16) or the same lightly batter-coated Shrimp Tempura with Broiled Fish ($13.50). Depending on availability, the fish might be mackerel, salmon or butterfish. The meal ends with dessert of vanilla, green tea or azuki bean ice cream.
Several soba and udon dishes are offered, ranging from $6 to $9. Curry with rice runs $7.50, or $8.50 if you want them to toss in a Pork Cutlet. Dry Curry ($7) is a Singapore-style fried rice.
American specialties include the likes of Filet Mignon ($18.95), Fresh Catch (market price), Veal Piccata ($17.50) and Prime Rib Au Jus, at $16.95 for a half pound, $18.25 for three-quarter pound and $19.95 for a 1-pound slab. There's sometimes a special of Cajun-style Prime Rib, which was certainly spicy enough to do New Orleans proud, though the meat itself was rather dry. The cooks also extinguished some of the peppery flavor by dousing it with brown gravy.
Those with a love of seafood might try the Kakinabe, or oyster stew with a mix of long rice, green onions and won bok. Or if you can't swallow too many oysters, the seafood version, Yosenabe ($8.50) has crab surimi and fish mingling with the oysters. The combination is quite wonderful. Even the surimi is interesting in the way its slim strands mimic the noodles while adding sweetness to the dish.
I don't expect any townie will go out of the way to find the restaurant, but for those who live here, it's a welcome addition.
Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
Prices: Less than $10 per person for lunch; about $30 to $40 for two for dinner
Call: 674-0222
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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