

GOURMET Express is all about nutrition and none of the things that are bad for you. Panini Grill
updates the sandwichWhen we introduced this eatery last May, it was about to kick off the wrap craze on Oahu, with rice and your choice of low-fat "entrees" rolled up in tortilla. These entress range from Mango Ahi Grill ($6.50) topped with ginger slaw and mango salsa; to Indonesian Chicken ($5.95), served with a spicy corn relish and Thai Peanut Sauce; to the milder Caribbean Chicken ($5.95) with black bean salsa.
If you're a fork and knife type of person, you could also get these ingredients in a "rice pot," or bowl, without the tortilla.
When Gourmet Express opened, there was a question as to whether people would respond to its fresh and low-fat formula. Many like to talk about nutrition ideals, while chomping on pork ribs and cheesecake.
Well, Gourmet Express survived and is launching into the next big thing via Panini Grill. "Panino" is Italian for roll or bun. "Panini" has become the word of choice in describing the Italian sandwich, a festive little number, decked out in an abundance of tasty herbed spreads, Mediterranean veggies and cheeses.Panini Grill is in the kiosk that housed Espresso Bravissimo Coffee, Inc. Since the small space
isn't equipped for sandwich making, the assembly is done over at Gourmet Express and the sandwiches get carted over once an hour. You'll have to take their word for it or stake out the place to check on them.
KEY to the panini is the foccacia, or flat bread, that took three months to perfect. Though punched up with rosemary and sage, I found Panini Grill's foccacia no more distinctive than any other in town. To look on the positive side, the bread doesn't compete with the fillings.
The best of the panini is the Vegetarian ($5.95) with roasted red peppers, grilled eggplant, spinach, grilled onions and a light basil-pesto bread spread.
Another of the seven selections features Grilled Chicken ($5.95) with ricotta and goat cheese, and a spread of roasted red pepper-black olive tapenade.
Those with simpler desires may opt for a Grilled Cheese ($4.95) or Pastrami ($5.95) sandwich.
Sandwiches do undergo a brief session under a cast-iron countertop grill. Problem is, the heat tends to wilt the greens. Spinach, especially, turns an unattractive shade of purplish-gray. It's too bad they don't add the greens after toasting.
Panini Grill
Where: Kahala Mall
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays
Prices: About $6 for lunch or dinner
Call: Gourmet Express, at 732-7700
Hoku's is hosting an Oyster Celebration Friday through Tuesday, for lunch and dinner. Hoku's is your oyster
In addition to the regular menu, the restaurant in the Kahala Mandarin Oriental will be serving appetizers to desserts focusing on the slippery mollusks.
For instance, choose from appetizers of fresh Blue Point Oysters on Cauliflower Mousse ($14.95) or Pan-Fried Canadian Oysters ($9.50); or dip into a main course of Pacific Oysters and Island Seafood ($26.95) in wasabi broth.
If nothing else, a dessert of a Dark Oyster Tower ($6.95) must be investigated.
For reservations, call 739-8777.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.