THE problem with most local rib joints is that those in charge don't recognize the obvious -- that when it comes to barbecue sauce, one flavor does not fit all. Dixie Grill open
for ribs and a six-packThe distance between the Carolinas and Hawaii isn't measured just in miles, but by mouth as well. The tart and tangy flavor of Eastern Carolina has little in common with our penchant for something a little bit sweet, a little bit sour and mighty salty.
Why, in the Carolinas alone, you'll find Eastern types prefer the clarity of thin cider vinegar and peppers. In the north, barbecue lovers like a bit of tomato sauce stirred into their vinegar, and in central South Carolina, it's plain old mustard they crave.
Hallelujah for Dixie Grill, the one restaurant in Honolulu that has mastered Barbecue 101.
Rodeo Cantina honcho Barry Silverman teamed up with Auntie Pasto's Ed Wary to create this rib and crab joint. The two chomped their way through the "Barbecue Belt" of Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, Tennessee, North and South Carolina and Kentucky to come up with a six-pack of barbecue sauces to slather over succulent babyback or St. Louis ribs, whether you like 'em wet (coated with the sweet, smoky Memphis-style sauce) or dry (rubbed with herbs and spices).
There's a sauce for every palate. Those who like the taste of cayenne and celery seed can dip into the Kansas City sauce. Those who favor Tex-Mex cuisine and the taste of chiles can pour on the Southwest Texas sauce. Of course, there's a Hawaiian version with a touch of mango and guava, tomatoes, sea salt, herbs and chiles. I haven't yet picked my favorite, so far preferring to stir up a blend of the Memphis, Texas and Hawaiian sauces.Dixie Grill is the first Oahu restaurant I know of to serve the dry ribs I love, but their powdery rub does little to enhance the pork. (I, alone, hold the million-dollar recipe!) But I appreciate their light, painterly touch with the Memphis sauce. At other rib shops, it seems as if a 3-year-old was let loose in the kitchen to pour a jar of Gerber's beet-hued baby glop on the meat.
INSIDE Dixie Grill, you'll swear you're in a Bourbon Street bar. The noise, music and crush of bodies make the restaurant seem smaller than its 120-person capacity. It's OK by Silverman, who wanted a place that offers value. His mantra: "We want to feed people, not have them dine!"
Feed you will, starting with typical bar fare of Chicken Wings ($3.95), Popcorn Shrimp ($4.95) or crispy Calamari ($5.95). Nacho Fries ($5.95) topped with cheese, bacon bits, jalapenos and sour cream are another way to eat potato skins, but many of the entrees come with fries and that's more than a day's fat ration.
They toss a mean Spinach Salad ($6.95), but green, leafy vegetables wouldn't win a popularity contest here. Besides the ribs, at $10.95 for a half rack and $16.95 for a full rack, I saw a lot of Rib & Crab combos ($15.95) go by.
Also on the menu are fall-apart tender Smoked BBQ Chicken ($7.95), Mess O' Crabs ($17.95, seasonal varieties) and chile-spiked applesauce. You can get a lot of the basics by ordering Barry's Trash Can Buffet at $14 per person for a minimum of two people.
And you must save room for a slice of classic Southern Pecan Pie, Georgia Peach Cobbler, Jack Daniel's Chocolate Mousse Pie or Praline Sundae (all $4.95).
Dixie Grill Bar-B-Que
& Crab ShackName: 404 Ward Ave. (Park in back or risk your life crossing the street at Sports Authority)
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
