THERE was a time when Andrew's disappearance from Ward Centre was cause for lament. A Pacific Cafe changed all that. Andrew’s reappears
downtownTalk about obliterating the past. At A Pacific Cafe's first anniversary bash last night -- with the kitchen open to guest chefs and the dining room open to 230 contented souls -- the question "whatever happened to Andrew's?" never came up.
Yet, as A Pacific Cafe devotees feasted on Ahi Tartare with Caviar, Herb Risotto with Shutome, and Grilled Quail, Andrew's was serving up dinner just two miles away. Surprise!
Finding Andrew's means ducking below street level downtown into the Executive Centre Hotel's dark lobby, where the restaurant is a brightly lit oasis. Multicolored napkins and artwork stand out against the lobby's austere neo-Deco backdrop. I liked the color splashes, though men in gray might find them too frilly.
Andrew's shows every intention of being a good downtown neighbor. The menu offers espresso for pick-me-ups during working hours; they'll pack food to go; and when I visited at 11:30 a.m. on a weekday, I was out by 1 p.m. -- almost record time for a business lunch, and if I had told them I was in a rush, they would have gotten me out sooner. You might run into longer waits at noon, when patrons overflow onto tables in the lobby.
On the menu are sandwiches, salads and pastas, ranging from about $8 to $12. Start with appetizers such as Carpaccio Alla Veneziana ($8.75), thin slices of raw beef layered with a red pepper aioli, onions and capers. Or for something more local, there is Portuguese Sausage Ravioli ($7.50). The ravioli are more like two giant won ton, and milder in flavor than one might imagine.A broiled Portabella Mushroom ($8.75) "burger" will have you feeling righteous for avoiding beef, while not missing its texture or flavor at all. I only wish the mushroom could be served on foccacia instead of an onion roll, which got soggy fast.
MANY lunch-time offerings carry over in the evening, with some differences, such as the additional appetizer of excellent Steamed Manila Clams ($10.25), in a broth of white wine, garlic, onions, herbs and red pepper. Kapakahi Caesar ($5.75) features watercress and chunks of avocado in addition to the salad's ingredients. Italian Sausage starred in spicy Puttanesca ($13.75), along with generous slices of zucchini, summer squash and yellow peppers, served over spaghetti.
About six entree choices are offered at night, and these are basic, including a Garlic New York Steak ($19.95), broiled Salmon ($17.95), Osso Bucco ($20.50) in a rich tomato sauce and Broiled Lamb Chops Persillade ($19.95), topped with a garlicky mixture of breadcrumbs and parsley.
Andrew's is still experimenting with its menu, which is fine, but more attention needs to be paid to details. An herbed cheese spread was missing from the mushroom burger; I did not get risotto with the Osso Bucco as described on the menu; a Pepper Poundcake dessert suffered a dryness usually reserved for days-old bread; and dishes were rimmed with fingerprints.
Considering Andrew's clientele will tend to be executives and CEOs out to impress or be impressed, the oversights are unfortunate.
Andrew's Restaurant
Where: Executive Centre, 1088 Bishop St.
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