By Ken Ige, Star-Bulletin
If you've always wanted to be a rodeo star, here's your
chance. This is a ranch, after all. Guide Deanna Keliihoomalu,
left, helps Cami Naehu, center, and Jan Makekau
run these calves through a rodeo course.



So much to do,
so little time

Beyond the trails:
Activities take place on land and sea

By Tim Ryan
Star-Bulletin

Before planning the length of your stay at The Great Molokai Ranch Trail, be advised that you'll only be able to get in two major activities a day.

Trail Blazin' Molokai Each activity requires between two and three hours. Morning activities generally start at 9 a.m., afternoon ones at 1 p.m., so unless you arrive early on the first day, you'll probably miss the morning activity.

Take some time to pick out what you want to do in advance. The staff does the rest. Most equipment -- bikes, helmets, surf boards, kayaks -- is provided. All you have to do is be at the pickup point at the designated time and your equipment and guide will be waiting.

Here's a list of available activities and comments on some activities the Star-Bulletin tried.

Cultural/Nature Hikes (1.5 miles, 2 hours): Led by Hawaiian culture expert Lawrence Aki. Participants hike over ranch land viewing heiau, adze quarries, ancient Hawaiian homesites, ku and hina rocks and ahu (shrine).

Mountain Biking (half-day and full-day guided tours; beginner, intermediate, advanced levels): Front-suspension bikes in an array of sizes are provided for an excellent look at Molokai's natural environment. Guides carry first-aid kits, two-way radios, cellular phones and water. Covered shoes are recommended.

"Most trails start out at Paniolo Camp and end at either Hale o Lono or Helena beach, about 5-1/2 miles downhill. At the end of the ride, a ranch staffer picks you up in an air-conditioned truck with refreshments ready. Guide and bike coordinator Harley Tancaya, who is part kamikaze -- the guy just loves the jumps -- took me down an intermediate trail that winds through kiawe forests, fields of lantana, wild ilima and waist-high sour grass, and in and out of winding, narrow, compacted red-dirt gullies with bumps and lumps and partially buried rocks popping up like the obstacles in a nutty video game. You set your own pace but don't be surprised if you take a spill. I fell twice the first time out. The trail has numbered markers so if someone is injured all the guide has to do is tell dispatch what number he's at and help arrives shortly. This is definitely a blast!"


By Ken Ige, Star-Bulletin
Hiking guide Gordon Albino, right, explains how ancient
Hawaiians used wedges to crack the huge rocks
that they probably carried to this area.



Ocean Kayaking (3.5 miles, 2.5 hours; half-day guided tours; minimum two people, maximum 20. Dry bags for your gear and a light snack are provided. Bring your own water bottle or drink.): A variety of kayaks are available, including tandems, depending on experience level and size.

"Philip Solaterio, whose dad Pilipo manages the ranch's wildlife preserve, drove four of us out to Molokai's southeast side where we paddled a half-mile to the barrier reef. We saw green sea turtles and a whale breaching, rode some tiny waves in our Teflon-like water crafts, then headed downwind and down current about three miles to the pick-up spot. Along the way, colorful fish darted under my kayak -- I even saw a brown-and white moray eel. I almost fell asleep as the current carried me through an enormous Hawaiian fishpond. Tranquil and easy to do. Definitely a good family activity."

Hiking Trails (Guided tours, twice each weekday; unguided hikes, any time; fanny packs and light snack provided): Three unique hikes -- Amiikopala, Naiwa and Hale O Lono to Laau -- showcase Molokai's native plants and animals.

"There are several hikes around Paniolo Camp. My favorite is a simple 2- to 3-mile trail that encircles the campground. On this hike, vegetation, Hawaiian archaeological sites and axis deer bones are all identified on small signs. Eventually all the cultural hikes will have signs. The walk accommodates all ability levels. It's a bit rocky in some places, scrubby and thorny in others. The trail ends at a picnic table on a high bluff overlooking the southwest corner of ranch land. A great spot for a picnic or a glass of wine. An excellent morning or late afternoon walk when the sun is low."

Wildlife Conservation Park (Guided tours last 2 hours, Tuesday through Saturday): See and photograph giraffes, zebras, eland, crown crane and other rare animals on this ranch preserve.

Paniolo Adventures

These activities have additional fees; long pants and closed-toe shoes are recommended.

Paniolo Round-Up ($90, 2 hours, Tuesday through Saturday, 16 years or older depending on experience): Visitors learn horsemanship and experience the thrills of traditional cowboy competition, competing in rodeo games such as barrel racing and pole bending. Then they join ranch cowboys for cattle sorting and herding. Ranch hands are on hand for safety.

"This is City Slickers-Molokai style. On my ride, 12 head of cattle were brought into a ring; I named one Norman. I drove cattle from one corral to another, separated six from the rest of the herd and drove those dogies to a pen on the other side of the ring. My horse, Sugarfoot, a retired cattle-cutting horse, made me look a lot better than I am, though I used to ride extensively. This is worth every buck, buckaroo. And Uncle Jimmy Duvauchelle, the ranch's livestock supervisor and paniolo round-up leader, is as paniolo as they come. He loves seeing city slickers like me enjoy what he's been doing for 31 years. Giddy-ap!"

Paniolo Adventure Trail ($60, 2 hours, Tuesday through Saturday, 12 years or older): Explore the island's west end, including the world's highest sea cliffs, to the overlook at Kalaupapa Peninsula, and learn about its natural and cultural heritage on this guided horseback tour.

Cattle Trail Drive Ride ($60; Tuesday through Saturday): Ride the range and learn to herd cattle. You'll help the paniolo keep the cattle in line as you drive cattle from pasture to pasture.

Keiki Paniolo Ride: (No charge; ages 4 years to 11; Tuesday through Saturday)

Whale Watching ($45; 2.5 hours, December to May): Aboard the 25-foot Explorer II, you will search for whales off the southwest Molokai coast.

"OK, you say, you can whale watch anywhere in Hawaii. Well, maybe, but not in a 25-foot, rigid-hull, inflatable boat that glides along the water, barely making a ripple. Capt. Mike Holmes operates the boat out of Hale O Lono harbor, taking up to 10 people west toward Laau Point searching for humpbacks. The boat may be a bit noisy, but it's real smooth riding. If Mike can't find whales at Laau Point, he heads seaward a couple miles, where the currents from Molokai's west and south sides meet. We spotted a whale several times. Then a pod of more than 30 spinner dolphins surrounded the boat for about a half hour, leaping out of the water, even doing vertical spins."

Unguided Activities

Beach: Spend the afternoon at Helena Beach or Hale O Lono for kayaking excursions, body boarding, surfing, snorkeling, fishing, throw netting, archery and trap shooting.

"Hey brah, there's no surf on Molokai, right? Wrong! The local guys may kill me for telling you this, but the southwest ranch land shore has some primo spots, similar to Oahu's Leeward Coast, and the wind is usually calm or blows offshore. Guide Gordon Albino, himself a surfer, took me to a spot just west of Hale O Lono Harbor that breaks left and right on south and west swells about 100 yards offshore. Our day was pretty small -- about 2 feet -- but the water was bathtub warm and crystal clear and we were the only guys out. Good fun. I'll forever remember Gordon riding a wave and saying, 'I can't believe I get paid to do this.' Psst: There's an even better break a half mile west of Lonos."

Keiki Corner (2 hours): Kids ages 3 and older participate in various activities, including bug hunts, nature walks, arts and crafts, and kite flying.

Family Fun: A variety of adventures are offered at the Paniolo Pavilion, from family Olympics to arts and crafts.

Golf: Play the nine-hole funky but fun Ironwood Hills Golf Course or the more challenging 18-hole Kaluakoi Golf Club.

Swimming: The 20,000-gallon "tank" pool is located next to the Paniolo Pavilion.

Also: hiking, mountain biking, tide-pool exploration, historical hiking tours.




Text Site Directory:
[News] [Business] [Features] [Sports] [Editorial] [Community]
[Info] [Letter to Editor] [Stylebook] [Feedback]



© 1997 Honolulu Star-Bulletin
http://starbulletin.com