If you're like lots of homeowners in Hawaii, your deck is the focal point for lots of activities. But as with most parts of your home, a certain amount of routine maintenance is required to keep the deck structurally sound, safe and looking good.

And since Hawaii's rainy skies are clearing, and temperatures are climbing, it's definitely time to start dining on the deck again.

Routine upkeep will prevent a deck from this wretched fate.

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But is your deck peeling or faded? Is the wood growing mildew? Is it dirty or showing wear and tear?

Chances are your deck is built of either redwood or pressure-treated pine since these are the most commonly used materials because they're resistant to rot and insect damage. But when exposed to the elements for extended periods, any wood will show signs of weathering and even if the deck was originally treated with a stain or preservative, the treatment eventually needs to be renewed.

Plants take root in soil
build-up between planks.

So before you start removing boards remember there are lots of things on the market to help you out, such as special cleaners and sealers to bring the wood back to its proper condition.

If mildew is the problem you could settle for treatment with bleach and water to clean off the deck, and be content with that. But mildew will always come back.

This is where stains and sealers come into the picture. There are lots of stains and sealers designed specifically for your deck. There are even deck brighteners -- actually bleaches -- that remove stains and weathering from the wood surfaces. Apply these according to the manufacturer's directions, usually with a stiff bristle brush, and rinse off thoroughly before applying any top coat.

If you want your wood deck to be new-looking forever, then you have to keep it clean and sealed. This must be done frequently. A sealer usually lasts a year, two at the most.

Sealers protect your deck from moisture and are available clear or tinted to act as a stain.

Stain might be a better way to go because it lasts longer. If you like color on a deck, use a semitransparent stain. It will not only provide color, but also protection, just as a sealer does, but can last three to five years.

Stains are offered in a range of opacities for either hiding the grain completely, or allowing it to be visible. When it comes to choosing a stain and sealer for your deck, check that the products are compatible and that they're suitable for the type of wood your deck is made with.

Decks exposed to
the elements will show
signs of weathering.

Samuel Cabot Inc. now makes a Solid Color Decking Stain with Teflon Surface Protector, using a resin with wet adhesion properties. Normally when water hits a stain, it penetrates. With wet adhesion, though, water simply can't penetrate, thus reducing the tendency to peel. The stain is opaque, with Teflon added to make it repellent to water and oil. The stain can be used on wood or concrete.

Now if the wood must be replaced, the first thing to do is inspect the surfaces of the deck and railing for excessive splintering.

If splintering is a problem, sanding the surface is the simplest solution. Use a belt sander to smooth the boards on the deck surface. Sand only in the direction of the grain, and keep the sander moving evenly (to avoid gouging with a sanding block) to remove roughness and hazardous slivers.

After a new deck has been exposed to the weather for even just a year, shrinkage of the lumber can cause nails to pop up above the deck surface. If the boards are still flat, reset the nails slightly below the surface using a nailset or punch that matches the size of the nail heads.

If the deck boards have "cupped" due to drying, there are several ways to approach the problem. If the cupping is not too severe, remove the nails with a pry bar then, install galvanized decking screws to pull the board flat. If the board is too severely cupped for this technique, use a pry bar to remove the board. Then use a circular saw to make a series of relief cuts along the back, convex surface of the board, equal in depth to about one-third the board's thickness. Replace the board and fasten with galvanized decking screws.

If this technique fails to bring the board flat, install a new board in its place. And remember to always use galvanized nails or screws when working on a deck.

Happy decking!