The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam
Star-Bulletin

Thursday, April 10, 1997

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Kailua ‘Paolo’
in a league of its own

DRATS! I was waiting for a food fight in Kailua that just didn't materialize, thanks to some good strategy by one of the would-be opponents.

My anticipation began when I learned that Phillip Paolo's was to open a new restaurant across Uluniu Street from Assaggio's. From the example set by Phillip Paolo's Pasta Pizzeria Restaurant in Hawaii Kai, it seemed that the restaurants would be evenly matched in terms of pasta dishes served at moderate prices.

It seemed foolhardy for the newcomer to challenge Assaggio's, which has long been the dress-up place to dine in Kailua. Solana was their closest competitor, but alas, no longer exists.

Well, instead of blowing the competition away, the new Phillip Paolo's Seafood Galley Market ambushed me with a menu as un-Italian, un-Assaggio and even un-Paolo as could be. I found fabulous, if simply prepared steaks and fish, a bounteous salad bar and good bread, too.

All was not so rosy to start. On my first visit to the new Phillip Paolo, I walked out, underwhelmed by the lackluster staff and the unappetizing, dried-out seafood specimens in the restaurant's "market" counter. Patience paid off. A month later, the staff seems energetic and enthusiastic. And the food is good.

Meals start with a delicious round of herbed bread, crusty on the outside and fluffy on the inside. It's served with a pat of butter and lots of roasted garlic.

THE restaurant occupies a strange space, shaped like a barbell with seating on the two ends and a rather useless aisle running between the two areas. The clever souls converted the wasted space into an all-you-can-eat, 20-foot salad bar provisioned with up to 40 items daily which may include pastas, smoked fish, couscous with pesto and a Southwestern rice and black bean salad. The salad bar is $10.95 as an entree, or $4.95 with another entree. It's possible to fill up on the bread and salad bar alone.

But unless you have a lot of will power, you'll have trouble limiting your choices. How does one choose between entrees of Prime Rib ($10.95 manini, $14.95 grande); Spiny Lobster ($22.95); Cioppino Frutte di Mare ($14.95); or Eggplant Parmigiana ($14.95).

Then for appetizers, does one choose cold Kim Chee Poke ($7.95) sprinkled with hot peppers, sesame seeds and green onions; cold shrimp steamed with saffron ($11.95 half bucket, $19.95 full); or Mussels de Mare ($7.95). The "Hukilau" Platter ($14.95) might help indecisive parties. It features all five of the cold appetizers. Only the shrimp were a bust, the saffron too light to leave an impression.

If I were to settle for one appetizer, it would be the Giant Scallops ($9.95), one of the "hot" selections kiawe-grilled to medium tenderness with a smoky, outdoorsy flavor.

Opah served as a fresh catch entree choice was perfectly broiled, as was the Rack of Lamb ($14.95, $19.95). The chefs don't believe in fancy sauces, allowing diners to choose from such meat- and seafood-topping basics as au jus, horseradish cream, marinara, garlic mushroom, drawn butter, artichoke dill and more. The staff will make recommendations if you ask.

If you like living dangerously, consider the Super Grander ($34.95). Down two pounds each of salad bar and white rice, a one-pound portion of prime rib, giant soft drink and an ounce of ice cream, and it's on the house. No cheating.

Phillip Paolo's Seafood
Galley Market

Where: 407 Uluniu St.
Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; lunch to start Fridays from April 25
Prices: $36 to $60 without drinks
Call: 263-3287

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.