Beats food processor texture.

The term also describes a Canadian visiting Hawaii 65 years after her parents named her for the song "To You, Sweetheart, Aloha." She brings an old-fashioned, unpretentious cookbook she wrote - with aloha.

Ontario visitor Aloha LaFrance has filled her "Back to the Grind" cookbook (General Store Publishing, 1989, $8.95) with frugal recipes for the century-and-a-half old, hand-operated Universal food grinder.

The 110-page softcover book features chapters on relishes, marmalades, cranberries, meats and poultry, vegetables and desserts - such as mincemeat pumpkin pie layered with homemade green-tomato mincemeat.

LaFrance is a clear-eyed, clear-complexioned woman who's been grinding up and "grinding" on fresh vegetables and fruits all her life. She said her recipes are usable with a food processor, but one won't get the "same texture or tangy flavor" as with a grinder.

She suggested grinding Spam with a medium blade and adding mayonnaise and pickle relish to get a sandwich spread with an ideal texture for seniors.

Order the book by mailing a $10.95 check made to: General Store Publishing House, One Main St., Burnstown, Ontario, Canada KOJ 1GO; call (800) 465-6072.

A dozen models of the familiar tabletop hand grinder - manufactured since 1842 - are available from Universal Trading Co., P.O. Box 100, Woodale, Ill. 60191; call (630) 595-1102.

Here's a recipe for a classic Thanksgiving relish. For an "Asian/Aloha grinds" touch, add a little fresh ginger, LaFrance said.

4 cups fresh cranberries (1 pound)
2 oranges, quartered
2 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon fresh ginger or more to taste, optional