Given the high mortality rate of new businesses, some of these entrepreneurs might be just a little too optimistic in thinking they'll survive until early '98 when the center is due to open.
One of the hopefuls is Mocambo. Its dining room is dressed in sunny yellow with cheetah spot accents on chairs. Papier-mache giraffes in black lend a modern-primitive touch to the room.
I dropped in a bit prematurely, actually, three days after it opened, but I just couldn't resist the exotic name. I was expecting African cuisine, maybe injera bread and doro wat. I got Italian. The difference between this and other recent Italian introductions is the food here is good.
The food more than compensated for a staff that needs time to work the kinks out. This is understandable in a new restaurant. What servers lacked in knowledge, they more than made up for in earnestness. Our server, with nary a whimper, made at least a dozen trips to the kitchen to get answers to our questions .
The owner, from Japan, was as nice as could be. The restaurant's weakest link was its manager, whose mantra was, "I'm sorry, we can't ..." when it comes to such simple requests as getting a copy of the menu or a doggie bag. (I had my friend go to a nearby restaurant to haggle for Styrofoam boxes.) So Mr. Manager, try to be more resourceful. Americans don't like to hear "no."
Baked Panko Mussel ($6.95) is just that, simply coated with panko and herbs and baked so that they remain plump, juicy and fresh-tasting.
Seafood Fettucine ($13.50) features shrimp, calamari rings and clams in a delicate, creamy mushroom sauce, tinged pink with bits of tomato.
Capisante Grillada, or Grilled Scallops ($13.50), too, are dressed in the simplest blend of balsamic vinegar, olive oil and herbs that enhanced, rather than buried, the flavor of the scallops. This was accompanied by a melange of tomatoes and greens.
Veal Scallopine with Marsala Wine Sauce ($14.50) could have used some tenderizing, but the sauce was excellent.
I hear they will be reworking the menu a bit, but all of the above are keepers. And the staff oughta be extra kind to the chef. He's a keeper, too.
Where: 1718 Kapiolani St.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Prices: About $28 to $42 for two without drinks. B.Y.O.B. until the restaurant gets its liquor license
Call: 942-0588
Each course in a four-course meal will be made with a different brew, such as a Tossed Green Salad topped with Cherry Wheat Vinaigrette, and Baby Back Ribs with Honey Porter BBQ Sauce, served with Boston Lagered Baked Beans. Each course will also be accompanied by a different Samuel Adams brew.
The cost of the dinner is $30 per person in advance; $35 at the door. Call 523-5841 to reserve.
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