I didn't like the food at all and never went back.
Fast forward to the present: Chiang Mai has grown and prospered, and a month ago, its chef-owner Art Srivongsana opened Payao at Restaurant Row, and lo! The food was heavenly.
Srivongsana explained the reason for the turnaround:
"When I started Chiang Mai, I didn't know how to cook. I was studying computer science."
He said that while growing up in Paris, "I was not interested in cooking. I got my mom there, so that was fine with me."
The boy who wasn't interested in boiling water has become a man who fully embraces the kitchen arts and goes as far as making his own curry pastes from scratch, explaining Chiang Mai's, and now, Payao's, tantalizing, multi-layered bouquet of flavors.
Today, Srivongsana would be the first to complain about the state of the restaurant business, saying, "Now, people think they can just hire a chef, put in some money and do it. But this is the hardest business in the world. You have to control everything."
That he does, from cooking to growing his own herbs and designing the menu cover. And that guy you might see applying water-based paint to the restaurant's pillars is no hired hand but Srivongsana himself.
Meals might start with Golden Calamari ($7.95), deep-fried and served with a sweet-sour sauce; Summer Rolls ($2.50 each) of vegetables, shrimp and noodles rolled into a soft rice paper wrapper or a specialty of Cornish Hen ($7.95), which is marinated in Thai soy sauce, ginger, lemongrass and Kaffir lime leaves, then barbecued and baked for a crisp exterior. An accompanying sauce is a spicy blend of nam pla (fish sauce), lime juice, chiles and a dash of sugar.
The menu boasts 51 items, 25 that are strictly vegetarian, such as Sweet and Sour Mixed Vegetables ($5.95) and Payao's Evil Tofu ($5.95), sauteed with mixed vegetables, basil and hot spices.
Seven curry dishes are offered, most allowing guests to choose to have them with chicken, beef or shrimp. I love the rich flavor of the red and green curries ($7.50, or $9.50 with shrimp) made velvety by coconut milk. Diners can also choose the intensity of the dish - mild, medium or hot. I tried the hot and it wasn't very. Those with a threshold for pain can add more chili sauce, which is part of the table setting.
Seafood lovers might try the Hot Spicy Seafood Combo ($11.95), with shrimp, clams and calamari swimming in a soupy blend flavored with, herbs, spices and red curry paste.
The priciest and fanciest item on the menu is the seasonally priced whole fish (recently snapper, at $24.95 a pound) prepared with your choice of sweet-sour, chili or ginger sauce. The fish is first crisp-fried to a golden brown, then sauteed with vegetables and sauce.
Talking about his expansion, Srivongsana said he did it for his two children, hoping that they get an earlier start in appreciating the art of cooking.
Where: Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana Boulevard
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 5 to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: $7.95 lunch special or about $25 for two.
Call: 521-3511; fax 533-0662
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