The casualties were many, but those who have survived this long may find a long-awaited cash infusion through overspill from Hawaii Theatre traffic. Foodwise, theater-goers have been wondering where to go in the vicinity after they've done Indigo and Duc's Bistro.
It's not too much of a stretch to head four blocks from Bethel to Alakea Street, which VIII-1/2, with its simple Italian fare, calls home. But call ahead because the restaurant opens Wednesdays to Sunday evenings with reservations only. Otherwise, VIII-1/2 is open for weekday lunches and it's best to go early. The muumuu and aloha shirt crowd starts filing in at 11 a.m. with turn-away business around noon.
There seems to be something for everyone, from San Francisco newspapers and the Star-Bulletin for the literati; W magazine for fashion types; jazz photography for the art and music cognos-cente; and Makua Council flyers for the socially awake.
A counter offers all the condiments one may need to thoroughly enjoy a meal - red pepper flakes, Parmesan, olive oil (however, they should get a better tasting oil). Kiawe wood stacked on the floor drove home the presence of a wood-burning grill.
Kiawe-Grilled Flank Steak is one of the restaurant's specialties and can be ordered up in sandwich form, at $8; or for just a taste, strips of the steak top Radiatore Verde ($9), pasta topped with mild zucchini pesto. The smoky flavor is wonderful.
Simplicity must be VIII-1/2's formula, but I missed the little extras diners have come to expect, such as a few vegetables to complement entrees. OK, maybe they want to sell their salad ($5 for half order, $9 full), but even
drive-ins put a little cabbage under their teri beef. At VIII-1/2, Stufato di Manzo, Italian beef stew, was all tender meat in a rich tomato sauce. But all beef gets boring after a while, even if you have polenta to break up the monotony. The only green on the plate were a few rosemary needles.
Gnocchi Verdi, spinach and ricotta dumplings ($9) were few, set floating on a massive pool of homemade tomato sauce. This, too, needed something. Luckily, we still had French bread to soak up some of the sauce.
Some of VIII-1/2's most popular dishes tend to be sold out, such as the Vegetarian Lasagna ($9; or $10 with meat sauce) and spicy pasta Puttanesca ($9).
Perhaps one of the best items on the menu is the Pollo in Potacchio, chicken ($8) in an herb-filled wine and tomato sauce, mellow and rich, with meat falling away from the bone as if it had been simmered for hours.
Light eaters should note the menu carries the plea, "Please, no splitting of dishes." So share, but don't try to be stingy.
Where: 1067 Alakea St.
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays to Fridays; dinner reservations only Wednesday to Friday
Prices: About $25 to $30 for two for lunch or dinner
Call: 524-4064
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com- excellent;