
I would be lying if I told you otherwise.
In the newspaper business, we realize that readership starts dropping off after three paragraphs and since I've led you this far (and thus earned my lunch money) I can tell you now, if you don't like, or are allergic to seafood, you might as well stop reading now. But be warned, no one else is gonna tell you about the war going on in our fair city.
I'm talking lobster wars.
It started a couple years ago without much fanfare. One now-defunct restaurant started offering a one-pound lobster at the then - I thought - rock-bottom price of $10. It was steamed, cracked open and stir-fried with ginger and onion. It wasn't enough to fill anyone up, but for a small "taste" to complement the rest of the meal it was not only wonderful, but cheap.
For a while, no one tried to beat that price. Then along came Fook Yuen, offering the pound-size Maine lobsters at $7.99. China House offers their lobster at a comparable $7.90, and now, Hee Hing Restaurant has lobster priced at $3.98, when purchased with $25 worth of regular menu items. This special will run at least one more week.
All these deals have catches, though they are not unreasonable. For instance, at China House, the deal is that only one lobster is allowed per person and the lobster is only available for dinner. It is not available for take-out; maybe some unscrupulous restaurateur might buy their lobster here and resell it for say, $20. But, savvy diner, now you know where to go.

The deal is netting diners left and right, such that the crowds are ridiculous on the weekends. Walk-ins could consider themselves lucky if they can get a table by 10 p.m., although the late-night crowd will be happy to see dinner is available until 3 a.m.
The restaurant also manages to stay busy on Monday and Tuesday nights, traditionally low-traffic nights for most restaurants, and as can be expected, every table top is adorned with centerpieces of deep red carapaces.
Budget-conscious diners chomped on lobster and rice. In the end, I also realized how clever they were, because the lobster happens to be the best thing on the menu.
Oh, I tried the Sizzling Oysters ($13.95) adrift in a murky, salt-laden Szechuan Sauce, and the Roast Cantonese Duck ($9.95 for single order), which was served at a cool, room temperature, and I was disappointed.
Better were the Sauteed Prawns served on a bed of crisp Honey-Glazed Walnuts ($13.95), although I could have done without the mayo coating on the prawns. And Chicken with a Portuguese Sauce, a sweetened yellow curry, ($8.95) fared well, but not as well as lobster coated in ginger and onion or simply salt and pepper.
Next time, the plan is this: Soup, vegetables, rice and lobsters all around. As for who's winning the war, it's us.
Where: McCully Shopping Center, 1960 Kapiolani Blvd. Suite 200
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 3 a.m. daily
Prices: Lobster dinner for two about $20 to $25; regular menu up to $48 for two.
Call: 973-0168
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com- excellent;
- very good, exceeds expectations;
- average;
- below average.