The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam
Star-Bulletin

This story is excerpted from the
Thursday, May 23, 1996 column.

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Boy, have times changed.

I never guessed my love for sun would turn to loathing. The point was made when my boss suggested we check out the newly open Ala Moana Beach Park snack bars. I said, "OK."

Then she whined, "Do we have to eat there. It's hot outside."

"Of course," I chirped. "Atmosphere."

I regretted it upon stepping outside. This one-time sun worshipper has turned solar-challenged wimp. Gone are the days when my favorite recipe was a splash of sunscreen on the face and lotion to cover all but the fishbelly white legs, which got dashes of Johnson's Baby Oil.

In spite of all the time I spent at Ala Moana Park - at least three times a week all summer long - I only went to the Magic Island snack bar once. What I remember was a thin, pasty-looking burger. After that, I always ate at the mall.

NOW the stands have reopen-ed. Physically, they are imposing pseudo art deco structures. One gentleman who ambled up to the window remarked, "Well, this is grossly different."

I, too, thought the structures looked out of place until someone mentioned sand castles. Yeah, I could see it in the rounded, rough, stuccoed walls.

For now, the Ewa concession has four $4.50 plates to choose from - Beef Stew, Curry Stew, Shoyu Chicken and Chili Frank. Then we tried to order. Make that two plates. "They didn't cook stew this morning," we were told. Too bad, we tried it at the other stand and it was good and meaty.

Shoyu Chicken was the sweet, local-style chicken, steamed tender. Neither chili nor hot dog was memorable.

A Tuna Sandwich was adequate, with crisp lettuce, and a choice of white or whole wheat bread. Considering anyone can put this sandwich together, it was pretty pricey at $3.

Then if it's water you want, it's the bottled kind you'll get, at $1.25 and $2.50.

At least at the Magic Island end concession, they've thought cool. There is a $3 Fresh Fruit Bowl which, on my visit, offered grapes, watermelon and chunks of oranges that tasted freshly cut. There was shave ice too, the icy, grainy kind that had us arguing the merits of this ice vs. the powdery sno-cone type. But no ice cream? It would be a natural.

The Magic Island stand also had burgers that the Ewa stand didn't. It wasn't exactly new and improved, but at $1.50 (25 cents more for deluxe), it's a better value than the tuna sandwich. Of course, you've got to get fries with that, which adds $2.25 to the cost.

Those up with the sun will find breakfasts await at the Magic Island site.

On week days, what was surprising was there were no beach-goers lining up, though there were plenty in the sand. Instead, everyone at the snack bars was fully clothed, as if they had come from the office or field and just needed a beach break.

It actually turned into a relaxing respite. My skin didn't fry. And if it was hot, I didn't notice.

Where: Ala Moana Beach Park
Hours: 9 a.m. to about 5 p.m. at Ewa end; from 6 a.m. to about 5 p.m. at Magic Island
Prices: Less than $5 for a snack
Call: 591-8801 or 951-1493

- excellent;
- very good, exceeds expectations;
- average;
- below average.