The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam
Star-Bulletin

This story is excerpted from the May 9, 1996 column.

Oahu treated to its very own Pacific Cafe

Iwas recently asked, "What's the future for restaurants in Hawaii?" I'm not psychic or anything, but it doesn't take a Nostradamus to note that the picture here still isn't rosy.

I think we have yet to see vegetarian cuisine's arrival - diners talk about wanting it, but restaurateurs will tell you it's not what most order.

Niche shops focusing on take-out items and a few specialties will proliferate, and there will always be room for the big players, the Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs who deliver Hawaii's best.

Those in between have the most to worry about since these down times call for food that's either cheap, plentiful and good or pricey but worth every penny.

All I can say is it's a hell of a time for anyone getting into the restaurant or restaurant review business, since there are more closings to report than openings.

At least Jean-Marie Josselin has nothing to worry about. His A Pacific Cafe Oahu easily fits into the "worth every penny" category of HRC restaurants and needed no introduction to fill the house.



Like Kauai and Maui versions of the restaurant, the interior is a work of art. It has a grotto-like feel similar to Maui's A Pacific Cafe, but it's much cozier at Ward Centre. Nearly every wall is splashed with a different color - muted oranges, blues, greens and purples. Over head, lights are framed by "stalactites" and amorphous lanterns shaped from mesh. The effect of color and forms is somehow soothing.

MEALS get off to a healthy start. The chef eschews the pat of butter, olive oil or fatty tapenade usually served with bread, for a creamy bean "pesto."

Josselin's loves for experimentation shows in a lengthy list of appetizers .

In the evening, Scallops ($9.25) are simply seared and float on delicate Japanese Pear Riesling Broth. The smooth white pool is dotted by orange tobiko (flying fish roe) "pearls." Calamari steak ($8.25) is pan-seared in a blackened plancha (pan) and served with a rich Brown Butter Vinaigrette and Green Olive Relish.

Spicy Lemon Chicken Lumpia ($6.50) was dry. And if you're especially hungry, note that the Firecracker Salmon Roll ($9.75) comes with only two pieces. I don't remember much else since I scarfed one down and that was that. It was good enough so that I recall craving another.

On a first visit here, we went on a fishing expedition, sampling the Moroccan Salmon and Grilled Ahi. Both were disappointing. The former, described as spicy, was innocuous and bland. The latter was drowned in a broth filled with quinoa. Even so, not everyone needs excitement and these dishes would perhaps be suitable for those who prefer their food mild.

A repeat visit was more satisfying, with a Tower of Lamb ($23), tender medallions stacked three to a "tower" and Beef Tenderloin ($26) topped with a crown of two shrimp, both encased in golden wraps of crisp noodles. Roast Duck ($22.75) was served with a tart Lime Ginger Glaze.

Look for the menu to change often in subtle ways as befitting a restaurant prepared to roll with the times.

A Pacific Cafe Oahu will host its grand opening May 16 as a benefit for the American Heart Association-Hawaii.

A four-course dinner will run $100 per person. For reservations, call AHAat 538-7021.


A Pacific Cafe Oahu: Ward Centre
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays; 5:30 to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: About $70 to $90 for dinner for two without drinks
Call: 593-0035

Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

- excellent;
- very good, exceeds expectations;
- average;
- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com



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