Volcano Winery produces a tasty variety of wines with local fruit. Photo by Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Hybrid grape, local fruit make
Volcano Winery offerings divine
By Nadine Kam
Assistant Features Editor
VOLCANO - On visiting Napa Valley wineries, Darrilyn Neves Phelps remembers not how remarkable the wines were, but how they simply blended together in her memory.
"Everyone was doing the same kind of wines," said the general manager for Volcano Winery. "After visiting three or four wineries, you can't separate them anymore. So we thought, why not do something with local fruit?"
The Big Island winery today turns out grape and fruit wines, made from ingredients grown over 64 acres in Volcano, and Phelps says, "Visitors have been jazzed about our tastings."
Their grape of choice is the Symphony, a new hybrid patented by the University of California-Davis. The grape is a cross of Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria, and named for its harmonic overtones.
The grape is known as a producer, and Phelps says, "In California, where it's producing 20 tons (of grapes) per acre, they have to go in and cut grapes off because the vine can only support so many."
High elevation on the slopes of Volcano means the grape grows slower, but results in a dry, spicy wine with a lichee, peach and apricot bouquet.
Symphony Dry sells for $8.
Other offerings include:
- Lehua Blossom Honey Wine, $9.50. Sweet wine made of honey from the lehua blossom from the o'hia tree.
- Guava Chablis, $8. Made from yellow guava and grape, this light wine has a spicy finish and hint of dryness.
- Volcano Blush, $8. Made with the fruit of the Jaboticaba, this wine has a cherry-cranberry flavor and dry finish, and is complementary to seafood.
The wine certainly sates Madam Pele. Says Phelps, "We have people calling us all the time and saying they've seen our bottles - full bottles - sitting out there. They just want to give a little something for what they receive."
The vineyards and winery are at 35 Piimauna Drive in Volcano on the Big Island. For more information about the wines, call 1-808-967-7772.
Other wine news:
- Tsunami Chardonnay: The Hilo Tsunami Museum Chardonnay will be uncorked for the first time at 5:30 p.m. May 22 at the University of Hawaii-Hilo's Campus Center, in a wine-tasting benefit for the museum. The wine has been specially labeled for the museum by Guenoc Winery of Napa Valley, Calif. Admission to the event is $50 per person ($30 tax deductible). For reservations, call 1-(808)-935-0926.
- Fine Wine Series: Seats remain for the University of Hawaii College of Continuing Education series on wines, limited to individuals age 21 and older. Sessions will be led by David Gochros. To register for any of the classes, call 956-8400 between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Fridays. Classes are as follows:
- Wines of the Rhone Valley (S7813) - A discussion of history, geography, wine-making and styles of wine will be followed by a tasting of Rhone wines. One meeting 7 to 9 p.m. Tuesday in the JMD Educational Center in Halawa; $38 fee includes wine samples and light pupu.
- The Best of California Merlots (S7803) - A study of one of the hottest varietals in California. Wines will be tasted blind. One meeting 7 to 9 p.m. June 11 in the JMD Educational Center; $38 fee includes wine samples and light pupu.
- Fortified Wines: Port, Sherry and Madeira (S7224) - Taste the fine ports of Duoro Valley, the sherrys of Spain's Jerez de la Fronterra and the immortal wines from the island of Madeira in one meeting 7 to 9 p.m. July 16 at the JMD Educational Center; $38 fee includes wine samples and light pupu.
- The Vintage Program in Fine Wines: For the Professional and Wine Enthusiast (S7804) - Introduction to wines covers types produced, principal grape varieties, interpretations of wine labels and classifications, wine service, proper glassware, transportation, temperature and storage. Two Saturday meetings noon to 2:30 p.m. June 8 and 15, at JMD Educational Center; $80 includes wine samples and light pupu.